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94 Points

Saturday, August 14, 2021 - This bottle was a tale of two halves. The first couple of glasses, drunk from flutes and with a freshly-opened bottle, were no more than pleasant; I was slightly disappointed. I then gave it a go in a white wine glass, and there was an immediate improvement in perceived concentration, followed by a delicious blossoming with air for the remainder of the bottle. What had been crisp and tasty but essentially mute became perfumed, floral, buttery and extremely long, with a hint of umami. Occasionally the wine gave the impression of being too rich, but every time the acidity came in and whipped things back into line, like accelerating a RWD car out of a corner. A really accomplished Champagne that, in the end, felt like it was at the start of a delicious drinking window.

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