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95 Points

Saturday, September 25, 2021 - My greatest day of wine (over)consumption. Ever. (Aaron and Tiffany's pad): First of Brian's 2 pinots. Notes on the nose of palate of red cherries and currants, earthy minerality, tree bark, some forest floor and mushroominess backed by a tannic note. Light garnet, medium bodied, light to medium legs. Medium+ tannins and really racy acidity. Great intensity and persistence, moderate complexity. Ok, so it's been too long since I've had a real (read: French) PN, and the last, a Corton-Grancey, felt like the winemaker had just finished an apprenticeship in Healdsburg, but this reminds me why we just may not have the climate, terroir or wherewithal to work with this grape in my part of the PTZ. Taut, saline and savory (may I digress a moment? every time I read a TN or pro review saying a Bordeaux or Burgundy is big and I think it circumspect, I want to ask the reviewer what s/he is smoking and asking them what their idea of a not big wine would be, as, in general, even the biggest wines this side of CdPs coming France seem lean compared to even our most reserved local products), this worked very well with Dave's Bouef Bourgongne, the lighter body of the wine more than offset as a balancing mechanism by its lively acidity and surprisingly robust tannins. Not closed by any means, but I can certainly see this becoming more generous, as the aforementioned Jagger--I know, I'm showing my increasing age--sang, time is on [its] side. Best Pinot I've had since a '01 mag of a Latricieres-Chambertin about 5 years ago. Should be administered as serum to those afflicted by too much candied fruit and baking spice from Messrs. Kosta and Brown, Martinelli, et al. Stylistically preferred vs. the '14 Marcassin Marcassin it was poured against. Not cheap at the WS price, but by no means unreasonable value vs. the inflated Burgundy universe.

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