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94 Points

Sunday, October 3, 2021 - A somewhat lean and reticent entry on the initial sip begins to slowly, fairly begrudgingly, unfold and expand into an earthy red berry concoction befitting hallmark Volnay. Medium on the mid-palate and delicate on the finish, the magnitude of this wine has to be measured in millimeters (not yards, as was the talk of the CA Pinot next to it); if one isn't paying attention to the nuances here, they will certainly be missed (especially if among other wine palate-grabbers and heavier fare - which both were indeed the case in this instance). Alone by the fire in Zermatt with perhaps a thin slice of mild charcuterie is about where this wine belongs. Next to a 2014 Marcassin Pinot Noir, it's not even worth having the conversation, which is ironically kinda why the conversation had to happen about polarizing terroir, classic vs. modern, ripe vs. restrained, fruity vs. earthy, et al.

Traditionalists will definitely find pleasure here, as this wine is pulling scripts and lines right out of a familiar Volnay screenplay. A wine one may want to wait on a few years to better find tertiary flavors that stand to add more depth and complexity. 92-94 points depending on how your Pinot classicism sways.

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