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86 Points

Wednesday, August 16, 2017 - A blend of Pinot Noir (90%) and Chardonnay (10%). Served blind.

Medium-deep lemon yellow color. Ripe, nuanced and rather dark-toned nose with aromas of sweet red apples, yeasty Franch bread, some brooding Pinosity, a little bit of toasty smoke and a subtle hint of creaminess. The wine is dry, very mineral-driven and somewhat neutral - even a bit austere - on the palate with flavors of steely minerality, crisp green apple, some MLF yoghurt notes, a little bit of wet stone and a hint of chalky bitterness. The mousse is rich, soft and moutfilling with very persistent bubbles. The finish is lively and sharp but quite neutral with lengthy flavors of autolytic crème à la vanille, piercing steely minerality, some chalky bitterness and a hint of yeasty leesiness.

A very mineral and restrained expression of Grand Cru Champagne. It is quite hard to see at this point whether the wine is just too painfully young, or if its style is just excessively neutral - even austere. The wine shows great focus and purity, that's for sure, but it really doesn't do anything to stand above the crowd: the rather one-dimensional, powerful minerality dominates but ultimately gives the wine very little depth or character. I want to believe that this wine is still just a baby and will open up into something more impressive after some years in a cellar, because now it fails to leave a lasting impression.

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