wrote:

Thursday, February 17, 2022 - No disgorgement date listed, but I bought this bottle in October 2013, so it's not a spring chicken.

medium gold color, with quite an energetic bead. On the nose, the fruit aromas are of bruised apple and pear, perhaps revealing the time in bottle. But there's also something more tropical—guava, maybe, or perhaps a whiff of pineapple? Then there is some almond and cinnamon/nutmeg baking spice. With some air, the bouquet is actually quite luscious and sweet, which is interesting for a Champagne with no dosage that I expect to be bone dry and very acidic.

On the palate, it is indeed a bit of a different story, with the fruit shifting to a more citrus profile of lemon and lime and maybe even a bit of grapefruit. But there's still some of the pineapple richness too, as well as some nuttiness—though less of the spice. It does also have an element of greenness, with a stemmy or leafy note adding a sort of earthy side to the finish. But it doesn't come off as being underripe or punishing. And in fact, the acid doesn't really jump out at me any more than with a regular Brut. The lack of dosage just changes it into a more athletic, angular wine. But it's still well balanced, and was clearly expertly made with excellent fruit.

I probably waited too long to open this, but it's still drinking very well. I wouldn't say it's truly worth the high price, but Champagne is what it is, so you either pay or you don't drink any.

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