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94 Points

Wednesday, November 3, 2021 - Domaine Leflaive vertical winetasting dinner (rest. FB (KG arr)): I have been so fortunate to be able to buy directly from the Cellars of Domaine Leflaive 3 rebottled and reconditioned Chevalier and Batard Montrachet 1997 and 2002. First time I taste that old Leflaive. Domaine Leflaive is one of my favourite producers but I have had so many disappointments because of premox. Last time related to 3 (three) bottles of Chevalier Montrachet 2007 - all of them premoxed...
The purpose of this winetasting dinner was to test these extremely rare old bottles in perfect condition against younger vintages. Let me immediately reveal the conclusion: No premox at all, so far so good. My favourite was Chevalier M 2002 with a little fresh fruit left but dominated by dried fruit (95+) close followed by Batard M 2015 with lots of fresher primary fruit (95). The two 1997 (chevalier and Batard) were in perfect condition but too tertiary for me in comparison to both 2002 and 2015 - no fresh fruit at all, only dried fruit left (mainly apricot) (both 94).

The tasting's seventh wine was Batard M 1997. As mentioned not my favourite of the evening. None of my 9 participants had 1997 as their favourite. Deep gold colour, but no oxidation at all. No freshness/fruitiness left, only tertiary notes like dried fruit and honey. Because of the tertiary notes I would not have guessed Domaine Leflaive in a blind tasting (I am used to younger vintages). Among others I did not get the typical toast/popcorn notes. Nevertheless an outstanding wine, 94, but not as good as Chevalier M 2002 which still had a little fruitiness. I believe a vintage 2007 in perfect condition would have been the optimal mix between primary and tertiary notes with an extremely high score. Sad I have never found such a bottle without premox.

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