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93 Points

Wednesday, September 20, 2023 - The grapes are harvested from the Cru Vorberg. Fermented in old 7000 to 3000-liter oak casks, full MLF, aged for 12 months in oak casks. 13,5% alcohol, 1,2 g/l residual sugar and 5,9 g/l acidity.

Youthful, quite intensely-colored yet not deep yellow-green appearance. The nose feels expressive with quite intense aromas of sweet yellow fruits like peach and pineapple, some apple jam tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light smoky notes of struck flint, a hint of rubbery reduction and a touch of extracted spice. The wine feels quite big and broad-shouldered on the palate with a full body, a slightly oily mouthfeel and intense flavors of white peach and ripe apricot, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of cantaloupe, light extracted spicy notes, a hint of fresh pineapple and a touch of chalky bitterness. The acidity feels impressively high for a big and ripe wine like this. The finish is ripe, long and spicy with an intense aftertaste of peach, some apple jam, light honeyed tones, a little bit of spicy extraction, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of chalky bitterness.

A big and quite ripe yet not fat, heavy or ponderous white with lots of substance, structure and finesse. At first the wine feels a bit closed with its somewhat reductive tones, but after some aeration the wine starts to open up, turning into an impressively expressive beast after about half an hour or so. Although the wine is still pretty youthful, it is starting to get past its primary phase and finally entering its drinking window - which is most likely going to be pretty wide. Although the wine is quite superb already now, I feel it is going to evolve and improve for at least another decade, if not more. Drink or keep - this is going to be an outstanding Pinot Blanc either way. This was very reasonably priced at 47€ per bottle in Compagnia dei Vinattieri, Siena.

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