wrote:

87 Points

Saturday, July 15, 2023 - Pencil lead & kelp minerality with full ripe American mandrake (podophyllum peltatum) fruits in the nose, and substantial soft yellow fruits on first taste. There's an odd-ish salinity in the mouth set against the ripe yellow fruit, and an overly pungent oak smokiness paired with just unripe stem tannins... reminding me of a not particularly favored Meursault. The word is disjoint... currently... tho all the leading actors are present, individually. Thus it will be, I think, for 3-4 years hence. I suspect the respectable acids & oak tannin will carry it that far, although, to what end I'm not at all sure.

For a good example of this style done well.. see 2019 Diatom Bar-M chardonnay. Therein, the oak's pungency is subtley expressed against the fat of fruit on your tongue reminding nearly of Condrieu... followed by matchstick & rocky (rather than misplaced) salinity set against -just- ripe yellow fruits (rather than well ripe) (Personal rating on 19 Diatom Bar-M 92-93) The word(s) are deft integration.

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