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93 Points

Monday, April 11, 2022 - #20-21, 8.5% abv. The sweetness drinks kind of like a very old-school Kabinett, perhaps even at a modern feinherb level. Slight yeasty/sponti note on the nose, especially owing to the relative youth, and despite the acidic profile of this on the palate, the (yellow) fruit on the nose feels very rounded, sweet, and ripe. The palate is quite different though -- the acidity leans heavily toward the citric side, with the sugar just barely able to balance out the acidity. This wine really does exemplify the whole "electricity-in-a-bottle" kind of aesthetic, but fortunately there's ample weight and breadth to give this balance. While I'm sure there's profit in aging this, the bright, drinkable freshness of this is just too compelling right now; my bottles of this are unlikely to make old bones.

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