wrote:

Friday, March 25, 2022 - Well, 15 months later, this is still yellowish and still looking good. The nose again begins with mango, but there's a riot of added distinct fruits which have suddenly turned the corner onto Ellergrub Straße, starting with gooseberry, blackcurrant and a short dash of passionfruit, and then a little chalk as well as talc. The blackcurrant shouts out so loud that you can't hear the river that runs below the vineyard. No more sponti or fresh late season apples, wax or warm slate. This must be terroir speaking instead of identifiable generic regional typicity. What a lovely, pure, layered and complex nose. The palate doesn't show any more spritzig now, but the same kabinett lightness is there albeit without the electricity, but also without the sense of calm, slightly creamy yellow fruit that befits a spätlese style which I noted then. Yes, this has not gone over to the other side. The essence of kabinett is still there and manifestly so - the ballerina has come out of retirement, looking slim and terrific. The restraint in her sweet smile is spot-on. Though the concentration is not astounding, nor the dance long, they don't need to be. All the fruits nosed are tasted too and there's a gorgeous pungent twist to the finish of her performance. What a glorious thing to behold. Fine plus again. I want to see a lot of her over summer.

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