Community Tasting Notes (4)

  • Lightish to medium yellow. Gorgeous nose of slightly waxy and faintly pungent melon, jasmine-like florals. Fresh, vibrant melon flavours with some champignon mushrooms there too on the 3rd day. Shortish length, but very good plus to fine. No need to rush these.

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  • After a couple of dullish-yellow looking bottles drunk in 2022 after my last published note, this one was lovely. Not fine plus, but close to fine. Bright medium yellow. Layered nose with pungent melon, some citrus, white-yellowish stone fruit and a proper and vibrant kabi-weighted mouth with some spritzig showing the freshness of this particular bottle. Certainly more energetic than the last couple of bottles and restoring faith. Bottle variation maybe showing at this point.

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  • Well, 15 months later, this is still yellowish and still looking good. The nose again begins with mango, but there's a riot of added distinct fruits which have suddenly turned the corner onto Ellergrub Straße, starting with gooseberry, blackcurrant and a short dash of passionfruit, and then a little chalk as well as talc. The blackcurrant shouts out so loud that you can't hear the river that runs below the vineyard. No more sponti or fresh late season apples, wax or warm slate. This must be terroir speaking instead of identifiable generic regional typicity. What a lovely, pure, layered and complex nose. The palate doesn't show any more spritzig now, but the same kabinett lightness is there albeit without the electricity, but also without the sense of calm, slightly creamy yellow fruit that befits a spätlese style which I noted then. Yes, this has not gone over to the other side. The essence of kabinett is still there and manifestly so - the ballerina has come out of retirement, looking slim and terrific. The restraint in her sweet smile is spot-on. Though the concentration is not astounding, nor the dance long, they don't need to be. All the fruits nosed are tasted too and there's a gorgeous pungent twist to the finish of her performance. What a glorious thing to behold. Fine plus again. I want to see a lot of her over summer.

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  • Yellowish and looking good. Nose of mango and papaya upon opening, which goes quiet for a while, but then blooms to reveal fresh, late season apples, waxy notes, sponti yeast and warm slate as well. Almost defines purity. Palate initially showed some spritzig, but the petillance didn't last long. Upon pouring, this had proper kabinett lightness and electricity, but with time, the ripeness of the vintage seemed to have a calming effect on the wine. Bursting with ripe yellow-hued and white fruit, with just a drop or two of cream, it comes close to spatlese style-wise with time, yet the essence of kabinett is there - like a retired and slightly overweight ballerina, still manifesting the poise and grace which attracts like a magnet. Really, quite a lovely drink at any time, but magic right now, as the pandemic wreaks havoc. Fine plus.

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