campingfleurie
Member #56,659 signed up 7/15/2008
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Xavier Auerbach
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2006 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès Château des Jacques
12/18/2015 - campingfleurie Likes this wine: 89 Points
Chameleon wine! I can reconcile - if not explain - the two most recent TNs below...
On opening, a brief raised element of funky floral, then a brown perfume: game, raisin, wet earth, a trace of old red raspberry, caramel and plastercine. It flies across palate: finessed / weightless. Decent spread. Lacks angles: low-tannin and near end of life? Therefore didn't decant, cooled further, and drank 2 hrs later. Led by red cherry skin! Flicker of farmyard. Strong and dry. Almost entirely different! A tad of nice sour edge too. Doesn't extend much... but that might be the now-evident tannin. Maybe it could evolve for quite a while from here; open out structurally and break up aromatically. 89-91 at moment; potential for more. 89 now?
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2009 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée
10/31/2015 - campingfleurie Likes this wine: 93 Points
Thanks to the note from XA below, I paused my perception that ‘09s were awkwardly closed at the moment...
Immediately, one of those affirmations that Vosne is real. Smiling taut blackcurrant quickly yields to quite intense red and black cherry. The superb, clean, bright, natural, concentrated, ripe fruit quality is revelatory in fleetingly evoking the liqueur character I dislike in hot-climate wines; begging the question of whether such are forlornly trying to imitate Vosne! This has a little integrated clip of acid attached to that characteristic; even if the ripeness calls for the fridge to enhance that pique of mouthwatering delight. Back to the nose, which is a meld rather than a set of components at the moment, but certainly includes subtle spice and red earth. Indeed, another surprise is that Lamarche’s distinctive red-leather oak is so well integrated at this age. That’s not the case in some of their ‘08s or ‘10s at the moment: I think the ripeness of the vintage is balancing well, and their 'oaking hand' was judicious with this level of wine this year. In the mouth: profoundly elegant. You could no more separate out the structural elements than you could pull the wine apart: it’s strong; a superior silk. That’s its substance too: light, firm silk; no dense, fleshy irrelevance. The wine’s concentration - and this drinker’s desire for contemplation - slow the drinking at the moment. Like a 1999, this will journey from blacker to redder fruit with age. It’ll lighten gracefully, and drink better and better. The balance and elegance will push drinking beyond the short-medium term I bought for. So it’ll do the job of protecting the ’09 Lamarche 1er and GCs I loved so much at E-P; and much more.
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1996 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
4/17/2015 - campingfleurie Likes this wine: 92 Points
Exciting, penetrating aromatic lines from bottle. Double-decanted and drunk 45 mins later. Nose contains some strawberry jam; lending density. Also wild strawberry, ginger and red earth; you can smell the energy. Palate is perhaps a little lean - reflecting '96 and grower - but has loads of vitality. Still some grip; reflecting Rugiens well & suggesting years in hand. Its remaining natural substance had me wanting to cool a cool wine further. Nose later added red raisins, tar and red citrus. Maybe the acid is a little aggressive. Immediate obvious excellence though. 10% next night. Rare meat to bandaid. Citrus, burnt strawberry and toffee. Concentrated, but dissipates / doesn't drive in finish. Still enjoyable, but clearly an oxidised manifestation.
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