2016 Bevan Cellars Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard

Community Tasting Notes (29) Avg Score: 95.6 points

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  11/18/2023 - GiWineDoc Likes this wine: 95 Points

  Big wine! Powerful nose. Cab franc comes through with big blue fruit. Fun wine

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  6/6/2023 - msuwine wrote: 92 Points

  How many Russell Bevan Cabernets does one guy need? It’s a question I’ve asked myself over the past 10 years, as Bevan’s empire has grown not only within his namesake product (10+ vineyards and counting) but also as he conquers new labels as a winemaker (e.g., Carter, PerUs, Lerner). This question is more important because Russell's style is the opposite of shy: without a doubt, his wines will provide inky aromatics, big fruit, silky tannin, nice acidity… boozy within (some) limits…similar chords, no matter the site. I do not worship at the altar of dirt, but Bevan leaves a mark, as do others in the Valley (e.g., Mike Smith, Kirk Venge, TRB, Benoit). I like - and buy - many of these wines, but they bear the brand of their maker. To repeat the question, how many versions of the same thing do you need?
  
  To test this proposition - in a very small way - I opened two bottles Russell Bevan made from the 2016 vintage, a PerUs Alessio and a Bevan SugarLoaf. Both were juicy, sweet, silky, and tasty. Both lacked notes that were savory, earthy, or non-confectionary. The Bevan was better (and cheaper), but both tasted, more or less, the same - not identical, but similar. In other words, Bevan's wines seem like Maroon 5’s songs: the lead voice is so distinctive, they all sound the same. If you like it, great - but there’s no need to buy (or listen to) more than a few.
  
  - PerUs Alessio. Dark red in color; full in body; aromas of boysenberry tart, milk chocolate, and rock candy. Flavors of blueberry, mocha-chino, and black licorice, with a sweet finish that has enough acidity to go for awhile (but not enough tannin to keep things interesting).The label says that this $300 wine is “established by a group of passionate people with the belief that life is not defined by material possession, but by the relationships.” As I barf in my mouth about this HBS self-importance - do the “relationships” pay for the wine or is it the carried interest loophole? - I confess to seeing this bottle as being as soulless as it is confectionary. Blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cab Franc, and 15% Merlot. 15.2% alcohol. 90 right now, even if I ignore the label. First time - and last time - purchase.
  
  - Bevan Sugarloaf. I loved this wine a few years ago (9/20 - 95 points), but tonight it seems like - and context is king - part of a Willy Wonka experience. Similarly dark in color and full in body, the wine offers aromas of blueberry pie, Hershey bar, and cocoa powder. The flavors sing the same tune (oompa?), with notes of cherry ice cream, fresh leather, and peppercorn, with a pleasant finish. The 55% Cab Franc provides ballast against the juiciness of this vintage, along with 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. 14.7% alcohol. 92+ right now, but I suspect it will be better in a few years.
  
  To be a bit counter-intuitive, the point of my review here is less qualitative and more quantitative. These wines are tasty, within a certain category - but there is a rate of diminishing returns to buying wines made by the same guy with different labels. I do enjoy Russell Bevan wines, but I need about 6 per vintage… not 20. And, if I had to make a recommendation after tasting many in his portfolio over the years, I’d err towards his own label… and, even within that, go with the Ontogeny. At $100 of pure fruit goodness, you’re in pop music gold - Moves like Jagger, go with the flow, and don’t sweat the small stuff...

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  5/7/2023 - PDXWineO Likes this wine: 96 Points

  Popped and poured at Carina Lounge. Was pretty tight at first but opened up as the night went on. Typical Bevan with Great texture, power and flavors.

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  4/22/2023 - dlcass Likes this wine: 97 Points

  Beautifully integrated wine that is striking and special! Nose of red fruit, forest floor, menthol, and spice. Very elevating on the palate with striking acidity and youth. Very long finish. Saint Emilion comes to mind immediately.

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  2/17/2023 - Geaux Tigers Likes this wine: 95 Points

  2 hr decant but lovely nose on open bursting out of the decanter with perfume
  
  Nose- sweet cigar box, cedar, melted milk chocolate, spiced sugar plums.
  
  Palate- complex and elegant, especially for a Bevan, more spice plums, red dried tart fruit, dried blueberries, but earthy undertones, long long finish, more developed and more secondary notes and less fruit than expected for a 2016 at this stage.
  
  Feels like this is past the usual belligerent youth I find in the Sugarloaf blend. This was, dare I say exuberant yet classy. This might be the closest thing to BDX I’ve ever tasted from Russell.
  
  That being said, in the final verdict and with 3.5-4 hrs of air, it became apparent the Cabernet Franc locked down the Merlot in what appears to have been an ongoing WWE cage match in the decanter and on our palates. A lot more boisterous fruit began to show up in our final glasses, a hint of what could have been and an ode to what will be. Minus points to the drinkers for lack of proper air time.
  
  Leaving 95 on the board, 98-99 potential if the fruit unlocks and oh so excited for that!

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