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Vinous

  • By Josh Raynolds
    Beaujolais: If You Want Value - You’ve Got It (Oct 2019), 10/1/2019, (See more on Vinous...)

    (Jean-marc Burgaud Beaujolais-villages Les Vignes De Lantignie Red) Login and sign up and see review text.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy

JancisRobinson.com

Full Pull

  • By Paul Zitarelli
    Full Pull Pride and Despair, 2/11/2019, (See more on Full Pull...)

    (Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais Villages Lantignie) Hello friends. You know those twinned feelings of pride and despair that you experience when an under-known band that you love begins to gain buzz and popularity? That’s what I’m feeling right now with Beaujolais. After years toiling away as sommelier and wine-insider darlings, these glorious Gamays are just now beginning to see a real surge in interest. Of course I’m happy for all the outstanding Beaujolais producers, who deserve to be able to raise prices and sell out every vintage. And I’m sad for we longtime Beaujolais lovers; all of us are facing a future of less-astonishing pricing and more scarcity. But we can leave that story to play out some other day. Apparently no one has told Jean-Marc Burgaud yet that he can raise prices. And better still: we’ve committed to a sturdy stash of a pair of wines today, driving our TPU tags down to solid discounts off release.Wine Advocate: Copyrighted material withheld. Burgaud – founded in ’89 and celebrating 30 years operating in Morgon this year – has been one of the toughest to source Beaujolais producers in Seattle in recent years. The winery was out of the market completely in the early half of the decade, and even in the past few years, as they re-asserted themselves through the Thomas Calder Selections portfolio (see here for a primer on Calder), they have been imported in microscopic quantities. I didn’t know much about Lantignié when I tasted this; I just knew it offered tremendous bang-for-the-buck. Fortunately, the always-intrepid Jon Marvin of Cavatappi (Burgaud’s local importer) filled in the blanks explaining why this wine is so good: On the next page you’ll see an article that was published while I was in Lantignié earlier this year and it will give you an idea of the progressive ideology there that stems from soil to bottle [I won’t include that whole article, but it’s about how the association there has decided to ban all synthetic chemicals by the end of 2022]. There are 40 growers in the village there and 25 of them got together to form an association called “Vignerons et Terroirs de Lantignié”. The eastern part of the village is pink granite and the western area is full of the blue stones that you see if the Côte du Py and the Côte de Brouilly. Along with most likely becoming the 11th cru in the region, Lantignié will be the first AOC for Chardonnay in Beaujolais. Considering the most recent region in Beaujolais elevated to cru was Regnié in 1988, it would be an exciting development indeed if Lantignié achieves cru status. And bottles like this one certainly make the case. It begins with a nose that is classic Gamay; I (and others) often use the word “crunchy” to describe the fruit quality. It just smells like fresh berries and grapes with taut skin and juice ready to burst when teeth snap into it. Such purity it almost hurts. Layer in dark floral tones and minerals and you have a classicist’s dream of Beaujolais aromatics. The palate is juicy and vibrant, with haunting inner mouth perfume and propulsive energy to spare. This is fresh as can be; a wonderful red for spring quaffing.

NOTE: Some content is property of Vinous and Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and JancisRobinson.com and Full Pull.

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