2007 Château De Leoube Côtes de Provence Les Forts de Leoube

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/12/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (FORTS DE LEOUBE Leoube) Leoube #2 Dear Friends, Some estates are just that much better than their peers and this biodynamic/organic entrant is attempting to re-define what it means to be Provencal – not an easy task. From the early results, they are certainly on to something... This is our second foray into the playbook at Chateau Leoube - the rosé offer from a few weeks ago had one of the highest responses of 2010 and the winery sent their gratitude in the most endearing of ways...by offering their limited red wines from two superlative vintages (before anyone else gets a hold of them). Just like the rosé wines (I’ve cut and pasted the original Leoube offer at the bottom of this email for reference), the property produces two red wines that combine the cool toned reserve of St. Estephe, the frivolity of Provence and the even-keeled extraction/low alcohol of the Bregancon Peninsula. As noted in the original offer, this is one of France’s most unique micro-climates with one of the more individual terroirs for wine production in the South. With only a handful of wineries and acreage at a premium, the wine from Bregancon can be expensive (very expensive) but Leoube has a philosophy of fairness even though their wines are arguably the finest on the Peninsula...especially the red wines. If you are into textural tannins, perfumed fruit and a north-meets-south persona that relishes low alcohol and varietal freshness (over sappy glycerols and brute strength), the two-step we offer today from Leoube will rank as one of your discoveries of the year. Both wines are Bordelaise in presence with a wrap-around ribbon of Provence that stays light on its feet despite the power of both growing seasons. An ideal juxtaposition between vintage and climate (i.e. deep, penetrating vintage condiitons married to a cool-toned nobility), this is extraction done in the most admirable of ways. My guess is that you’re going to be giggling over both wines. A new style for the South? In a word, yes. 2009 Chateau Leoube Cotes de Provence (rouge)- (this is not the Rosé, it is more expensive, you’ll have to check pricing on the 2008 version but it should be around $20 in Europe...and that was for 2008) Cotes de Provence or Cotes de Medoc? The predominantly schist soil and angled perch above the cooling sea make their presence known here and this wine has just as much in common with the Left Bank of Bordeaux as it does with the environs of Hyeres and the Var beyond. Where many red wines from Provence are tannic (to a fault) with deep, inky colors and higher alcohol, the Cotes de Provence from Leoube is a different animal - it is made from the same indigenous varietals as most in the area (Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan) yet, at Leoube, that expression means varietal freshness and harmony first – a complete breath of fresh air on a sweltering summer's eve (literally). The 2009 vintage is another barnburner of a year at Leoube and this regal wine is a delicious foil to grilled steak and hard cheese but it also enhances more delicate fair such as braised ocean fish or even rabbit. It’s soul rests in a deep-seeded center of minerality with a purity of fruit that expresses a certain genteel quality that is notably absent in many examples from Provence. That does not mean it is a light wine, quite the contrary, but it prefers to let the braggarts in the room exhaust themselves before it politely enters the conversation to widespread applause. In other words, the finest wines need not prove a thing to you – they don’t require tricks, over-oaking or manipulation to force your attention – the finest wines are so for a reason and this wine personifies that belief with a deft hand. A top selection that will be very popular with a wide audience - collector or neophyte alike. No oak is used in this wine. 2007 Chateau Leoube “Le Forts de Leoube” (Cotes de Provence/rouge) - (you’ll have to check pricing on the 2006 Forts but it should be around $25-30 in Europe...and that was for 2006) This is Leoube’s “grand cru” red wine and it is a serious showing. From 30-50 year old vines grown in schist and clay, the Forts de Leoube has quickly emerged as one of the very top entrants in all of Provence. Strong words? They should be. This dandy is from the stellar 2007 vintage and it is a multi-layered, mineral and fruit-rich wine from a classic cépage de Provence (Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache, Carignan) that still manages to keep the alcohol between 13.0-13.5%. Compared to most of Chateauneuf du Pape, which is having trouble staying under 15.0%, this wine feels alive with a desirable brightness and energy. The fruit is so delicious and rich in this wine that it is difficult to keep the cork where it belongs – in the bottle neck (oops, opened another one). In some way, the 2007 Forts reminds me of Boston – it is part MIT, part Harvard and part Tufts but it still has its roots in the most tradition-riddled soil one can find (just like Boston). It is studious and wise, very well read and a quick wit that recites poetry by upstart authors that you and I would simply shrug our shoulders at (by contrast, the regular Cotes de Provence has a bit more street-worthy BU thrown in to keep people honest). The Forts de Leoube challenges us with its intellect but it never lets us feel unworthy or, for lack of a better word, dumb. This may sound bizarre, but certain wine's are so challenging, many tasters simply miss the point – the Forts is the opposite – it is an intellectual and brawny red wine that helps us to understand its virtues instead of alienating us with a “holier than thou” attitude. A contender for wine of the vintage in Provence. This parcel is directly form the winery cellar with impeccable provenance Please give us your maximum number of each – 36 x Cotes de Provence and 12 x Forts de Leoube and we will allocate accordingly To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in late September/October (please check OARS for local pick up after October 15th). It will ship during the Fall shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA *********************** (If you still have the stamina to read on, here is the original Leoube Rosé offer from a few weeks ago - for background on the winery) Leoube Dear Friends, This is one of the more important discoveries of my travels and the potential is endless (from a vinous and gustatory standpoint). As a new addition to the Garagiste family of producers, Chateau Leoube makes one of the strongest entrances of the summer... There are times when smaller isn’t always better. While that may be contrary to our normal initiative of championing the struggling young pioneer, in this case, the only thing that would save the one of a kind parcel that Leoube now sits upon was money. Set in arguably Provence’s most beautiful and natural maritime setting (between Domaine Ott and the Fort de Bregancon), this natural preserve of 500 hectares sits just next to the French President’s summer residence, not to mention a host of wild animals and delightful fauna. The area is governed by a strict set of rules and regulations that forbid construction or development without a protracted set of negotiations, permits and promises. Where much of Provence has been over-run by ramshackle development, the Bregancon Peninsula is still about one thing – preserving nature. Which brings us to Leoube. The beautiful property that the winery inhabits was the last plantable acreage on the west side of the Bregancon outcropping (the good side) and it came up for sale several years ago as an ageing French matriarch had no heirs. Russian developers circled like sharks as the resort potential here was as stunning as it gets in the South of France and they had the funds ($billions) to convince the government that a massive eco-resort would be just the thing for this paradise. At the 11th hour, the family that owns Dalesford Organic in London stepped in and purchased the entire property from the matriarch, saving it from almost certain ruin by development. They pledged to keep it a natural/agricultural wonderland and their philosophy is hyper-organic and traditional. Leoube was a perfect match for their philosophy - they own parcels of land around the world and each helps to sustain the other (i.e., the wheat grown at one of their properties produces bread and feeds the animals on another property, the fruits and vegetables gown at Leoube feed the workers at other properties, etc – a closed natural/organic loop where everything is accounted for). Not only is the land protected by law but it is also protected by the sea on two sides and a mountainous spine at its center. This allows the peninsula to absorb an almost Atlantic/sea influenced climate that routinely overtakes the area. On the Bregancon, temperatures can be 10-15 degrees lower than only 5 kms to the north but the fabulous Provencal sun is the same. That is the key. Cooler growing temperatures, torrid sun and an omnipresent sea breeze that moves from east to west (typically missing much of the mainland but treating the Bregancon as just another part of the sea) makes 100 degree days feel somehow cool? When the heat is on, the French head to the pristine beaches of the peninsula to cool off but they have to head home at nightfall... The grapes get to live there full time... ...and what grapes they are. Not only is the climate completely different than the rest of Provence but the soil is also unique – clay and schist – a combination that imparts terroir and minerality first, not blowsy Grenache fat. Run admirably by the ever-capable Jerome Pernot, Chateau Leoube is now a modern representation of what can be accomplished by doing nothing with the terroir and allowing the special nature of the climate and soil to shine. The wines are made in a traditional fashion, are all very low in alcohol for Provence (12.0-13.0%) and all are from natural yeasts that ferment very slowly. Hand-picked and manually sorted grape by grape, this is a painstaking exercise that yields fascinating and vibrant wines. Nothing is added or taken away in the process – these are true wines of their place, gently pressed and allowed to fully express their potential. They deserve a place in everyone’s cellar. Oh yes, as long as we’re headed down a path of pink wine lately, we may as well go to the pinnacle. What I forgot to mention above is that the Bregancon terroir and sea climate is the perfect set of condiitons for rose – Provence’s ultimate expression. Not only is Leoube one of only a handful of wineries on the Bregancon (I believe there are only four?), but the vineyards lie smack dab in the middle of the climactic epicenter - let’s see what they’ve done with it: 2009 Chateau Leoube Cotes de Provence Rose – SOLD OUT (compare at $20+ in Europe) From 20-30 year old Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache vines (with a small percentage of “other”), this is the essence of Leoube and of the Bregancon Peninsula - a crystal clear rose that could not be produced in any other part of Provence. Light on its feet (12.0-12.5% alcohol) but full of flavor and a fresh-pressed quality that is simply a joy to drink, you can forget pre-conceived notions of sweet and sappy rose – this wine is about detail and regal nuance (the sugar levels are nearly 0). As we’ve already mentioned, 2009 produced rose for the ages in Provence but this wine offers elegance over the simple exoticism of many other 2009’s. Its presence comes from the schist soil and cooling sea breeze – not from over-extracted grapes. Deceptively easy to drink, this mineral-rich and spice-laden wine has structure that’s built to last in the same way as a classic Burgundy – it is a wine that appears feminine at first but can last for years. A new standard for the region at a fantastic price. 2009 Chateau Leoube Cotes de Provence Rose “Le Secret de Leoube” - SOLD OUT (compare at $30+ in Europe) From a monopole of 30-50 year old bush vines perched just above the beach (ocean spray hits the vineyard on a regular basis, adding an additional magical twist), Le Secret de Leoube is their grand cru rose wine and its a memorable experience. From mostly Cinsault and Grenache, the color may be light but the palate is simply enchanting...and what length – endless for rose. This is akin to Vosne meets Provence and the old-vine fruit imparts a cavernous depth to the material. Floral and brimming with a grapefruit-tinged nature that seduces and then wraps its unforced arms around you, this complex and broad (but still delicate) wine is so full of natural fruit sap, fresh acidity and ageing potential, it almost defies the term rose. The winery suggests cellaring this for another 2-4 years and drinking over the following decade. A lovely wine that is shocking in its clarity and elegant depth of fruit (not to mention its rarity – yikes, only a few dozen cases for the entire US). EXTREMELY LIMITED Chateau Leoube - headed toward “first growth” possibilities with their priorities firmly in the right place – sustainable, natural and true to their wonderful slice of terroir on the Bregancon. If you like to discover new horizons before they increase in price and before the US market catches on, here’s your chance. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED This parcel is directly from the winery cellar – if we run out, there’s a small parcel in the NY area as well. Please give us your maximum number up to 24 x Cotes de Provence Rose and 6 x Le Secret de Leoube To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in the late summer (please check OARS for local pick up in September). It will ship during the Fall shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.