2005 Barbacarlo Montebuono

Community Tasting Notes (4) Avg Score: 93 points

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  12/19/2023 - Bolognese Diner Likes this wine: 95 Points

  An evening spent in the esteemed company of three sommelier friends provided the opportune moment to uncork a recently acquired bottle that had immediately compelled me to exercise restraint in my capacity as a solitary opener. The narrative surrounding this wine is both extensive and intricate, as evidenced by the noteworthy score that pleasantly surprised me. However, I shall confine my remarks in this segment to extend commendation to the vintner, Lino Maga, who, at the time, oversaw the production of both labels within his cellar before gracefully passing the mantle to his highly adept son. Such individuals embody the essence of the Italian oenological landscape—possessing not only capability and talent but also a profound understanding of their terroir, enabling them to uphold elevated standards of quality without resorting to enological sophistry.
  Upon opening the bottle, the residual carbon dioxide elicited a gentle exhalation, promptly diffusing the wine's aroma in the immediate vicinity. As I inhaled, tasted, and ruminated, I reflected on the possibility of having focused excessively. Initially, the olfactory profile revealed nuanced complexities associated with the undergrowth, damp foliage, soil, a subtle suggestion of volatile acidity, and a faint ferrous undertone. However, these impressions were conveyed with subtlety, as the nose initially remained somewhat reserved. Undeterred, I persisted in my exploration, and the miracle unfolded gradually and inevitably, akin to Lino's preference—allowing ample time for the consumption of all those blessed cigarettes between sips. Gradually, the aromatic spectrum transitioned from the animalistic and wild to an intense spiciness, characterized by black pepper. Subsequently, it cycled back to leather before enchantingly reverting to petite, crisp blue fruits. Notes of vegetation and balsamic undertones interwove, punctuated by refreshing hints of anise.
  In the mouth, the wine exhibited unwavering poise; its tannins, while still formidable, presented as though bottled a mere day prior. Yet, they frequently yielded to a phenomenal balsamic freshness, rendering the act of imbibing almost a requisite gesture. Notably, the wine's aromas and nuances lingered discernibly on the palate for extended seconds. Partaking of wines of this caliber places one face-to-face with the authenticity of genuine "natural" wine, thereby juxtaposing the grandiose vinicultural enterprises and their mass-produced homogeneity. I would, without hesitation, indulge in this elixir on a daily basis.
  
  Serata in compagnia di tre amici sommelier, mi sembrava l'occasione migliore per aprire questa bottiglia comprata di recente e che da subito mi aveva costretto ad un esercizio di contenimento delle mie pulsioni da stappatore solitario. il racconto che si potrebbe fare di questo vino è lungo e dettagliato, come si vede dal punteggio mi ha stupito in positivo, ma mi limito in questa parte a rivolgere un plauso al produttore, Lino Maga, che all'epoca ancora sopravvedeva la produzione di entrambe le etichette della sua cantina prima di passare il testimone al (bravissimo) figlio; queste sono le figure di cui il mondo dell'enologia italiana necessita, persone capaci, talentuose, con una conoscenza profonda della loro terra e in grado di mantenere standard di qualità elevati senza ricorrere a sofisticazioni enologiche da chimici di laboratorio. Apro il vino e il leggero residuo di CO2 fa sofffiare la bottiglia iniziando fin da subito a spandere il suo profumo nei dintorni, annuso, assaggio... penso; forse mi sono focalizzato troppo e in un primo momento il naso raccontava diverse sfumature evolute, legate al sottobosco, alla foglia bagnata, al terreno, una punta di acidità volatile e un leggero sentore ferroso. Tutto ciò è però veicolato senza potenza, è un naso che all'inizio rimaneva un po' sulle sue. Lo seguo, non mi arrendo, e il miracolo avviene pian piano, inesorabile, come avrebbe voluto Lino, lasciandogli il tempo di fumarsi tutte le benedette sigarette tra un sorso e l'altro. Si iniziano a susseguire profumi animali, selvaggi, poi una spezia intensa, pepe nero, poi si evolve tornando alla pelle, poi magicamente si torna sul frutto blu piccolo e croccante, note vegetali e balsamiche si intrecciano, rinfrescate da sbuffi di anice. In bocca non perde un colpo, il tannino è ancora impressionante, sembra imbottigliato ieri, sovente tuttavia lascia spazio ad una freschezza balsamica fenomenale che rende la beve quasi un gesto necessario. Sul palato i suoi profumi e sentori sono ancora distinguibili dopo decine di secondi. Bere vini come questo ti mette davanti alla realtà del vero vino "naturale" ridicolizzando le grandi realtà vinicoli e i loro milioni di ettolitri prodotti in fotocopia, lo berrei tutti i giorni.

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  3/12/2022 - PSPatrick wrote: 92 Points

  Montebuono vertical - In memory of Lino Maga (Skype): 13.5% ABV. Light to medium ruby colour. Red fruit, bubble gum, light ethereal notes and a hint of brett, with lively acidity, fine, dry tannin, and very good length of the lightly drying finish. Good energy and tension. Very well balanced, and very persistent. Consistent on day two. Should continue to age well.

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  10/14/2020 - forceberry wrote: 94 Points

  A blend of Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta (Vespolina) and Barbera sourced from the Montebuono Cru, all the fruit harvested simultaneously when Croatina is ready. Made in a very hands-off fashion: made with organically farmed fruit, fermented spontaneously in old oak casks, no temperature control, no additions, bottled unfiltered in the spring following the harvest with a small dose of SO2. 13,3% alcohol, 0,33 g/l residual sugar, 5,48 g/l acidity, 0,52 g/l VA, pH 3,44 and 43 mg/l total SO2. Tasted in a Lino Maga 2015-1979 vertical.
  
  Pale, luminous and fully translucent ruby red color with an evolved brick-orange hue. Quite dry and moderately developed nose with savory aromas of ripe cranberries, some wizened red cherries, light notes of autumnal leaves, a little bit of earthiness and a hint of parasol mushroom. The wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with savory flavors of brambly raspberries, ripe red cherries, some umami notes of raw meat, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light peppery tones and a ferrous hint of blood. The overall feel is textural and more classical than particularly wild - as opposed to the normally a bit funkier style of Lino Maga wines. Thanks to the high acidity and moderately grippy tannins, the wine is still wonderfully structured despite its 15 years of age. The finish is dry, spicy and moderately long with complex flavors of sanguine iron, some meaty umami tones, a little bit of peppery spice, light brambly raspberry tones, a hint of sour cherry and a touch old, dry leather.
  
  All in all, a beautiful, complex and wonderfully savory vintage of Montebuono where all the right pieces seem to be exactly in place. Although Lino Maga's style can be quite rustic and funky, this is surprisingly clean for the house style - although the wine is nevertheless very old world in style with some nice roughness around the edges. Starting to show some age, but still the wine is relatively a youngster - I can imagine this wine continuing to improve for another decade or two and keeping good for even longer. Very fine stuff, highly recommended.

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  9/18/2016 - cbforever1 wrote: 91 Points

  Grapes from a different vineyard than its more famous brother Barbacarlo, it is not a "second wine" just a different terroir expression. I like the fact that this wine is natural since when the word "natural" was meaningless to people and its coherent with itself no matter where trends are moving producers and consumers. It it an eternal wine, looking and tasting much nicer and primary then its age. An experience everyone should try in his life!

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