2014 Hamacher Pinot Noir Willamette Valley

Community Tasting Notes (1) Avg Score: 90 points

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  3/17/2024 - JohnMcIlwain Likes this wine:

  When you are in the midst of mud season/fools’ spring and the biodynamic calendar gives you a flower day, maybe open a Pinot Noir. And if it’s one from criminally under-appreciated Eric Hamacher, so much the better! Upon opening the robe is garnet to ruby hue, though with air this veers more on the ruby spectrum. The nose similarly shows some age and a bit of backwards oxidative ferruginous character, but 45 minutes in the decanter brings out red fruit, spice, balsam, and a whiff of rosehip. There are sotto whispers of nutmeg, and cola from the wood, as well but air remedies this as the pretty florals and red fruit aromas take precedence. There’s some richness here that belies the reported 13.6% abv (no heat, but enough glycerin and texture on the mid-palate), though the tannins are resolving nicely and there’s plenty of acidic verve driving the finish. I suspect another five years will allow all the elements to knit—though I hasten to attest this is very good to excellent. Shining with feijoada (Brazilian black beans), picanha steak, and a salad with a bitter orange vinaigrette, of all things. But I’d be comfortable serving this with braised duck legs or pork belly. Real fine Pinot Noir from one of the nicest winemakers in the Willamette Valley. Decant if drinking now, but seriously, no hurry. Re-buy? 6 bottles clearly wasn’t enough.

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