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 3/30/2003 (Seattle, WA, USA)
 

 

Tonight was the 3rd meeting of the Seattle Tasting Group (well, there is probably more than one tasting group in Seattle but we've stolen this moniker for a couple of months running without anyone on this board screaming...)

I hosted this at my house with a theme of Tuscan reds, 1998 or older. Any varietal was fair game. We started with 5 white wines, followed by 17 themed reds, and finally we finished with 4 dessert wines. In total it took us eight flights and about 6.5 hours to get through all 26 of these along with dinner.

As a general note, a lot of these wines showed less well than we might have expected. There were a lot of high acid profile wines that really worked our palates over and were less forgiving without food (we ate before tasting). There was a general sense that nearly every single bottle tasted would be lovely on its own with a meal, and in general apart from 1-2 wines there was stunning consistency, lots of mid to high 80's and some low 90's.

 

THE WHITES

  • 2001 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo - Italy, Campania, Greco di Tufo DOCG
    My bottle. I liked this more than anyone else. Loads of peach, nice minerals, bursting out of the glass with fruit. Wow! Medium body with a clean feel, nice acidity, and a powerful finish. In my book this is an enjoyable white wine. (90 pts.)
  • 2001 Zenato Lugana San Benedetto - Italy, Lombardia / Veneto, Lugana
    Sigh, for me (and maybe 1-2 other folks) this wine had a strong note of varnish on the nose and palate. It actually had a very nice, refreshing mouthfeel and a medium intensity finish, but once I smelled that varnish I couldn't really find much else in the wine. (84 pts.)
  • 1999 Martinelli Chardonnay Woolsey Road - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    This wine was much darker in the glass than the other two and clearly had seen more wood. This seemed like a well made Chardonnay with lots of toast on the nose, really luscious mouth feel, and a reasonably powerful finish. Maybe it was a touch hot on the palate, but that may have had more to do with serving temperature. It was very well liked by nearly everyone, but unfortunately for me it was too roasted, almost burned. I caught a strong scent of burned chestnut, and I simply couldn't get past that to enjoy the wine. I think you will see other tasters chiming in saying this was their favorite white though. (83 pts.)
  • N.V. Sokol Blosser Evolution No. 9 - USA, Oregon
    NV 5th Edition Sokol Blosser Evolution #9. This is an oddball wine that is a blend of pretty much everything white. Initially this had a bright nose of lush tropical fruit that simplified to peach with time in the glass. This has lively acidity and lots of residual sugar with a simple, perhaps overly sugary finish. Nicely chilled, this would be an ideal summer quaffer. (88 pts.)
  • 2000 Dehlinger Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    When I saw the deep gold color in the glass I thought, oh no, not another California Chardonnay. A year ago I used to love these, but lately the wood is really getting to me. Sure enough, I stick my nose in the glass, and this is oozing toast and butter. Reluctantly I take a taste and there is the toast, but oh what a luscious body to this wine. And then the zingy acidity kicks in and this thing is alive in my mouth with a really powerful finish. Wow, this is a CA-Chard that I like. And so against everything in me I rated this as a 90 point wine and was even more pleased when I realize I have my own bottle of this down in the cellar. As an aside, I have to say that I have loved every bottle of wine I have ever tasted from Dehlinger (Pinot, Chard and Syrah) (90 pts.)

TUSCAN REDS

  • 1997 Falesco Lazio Montiano - Italy, Latium, Lazio
    Wow, this wine had a KNOCKOUT nose of an earthy aged Cabernet (or so I thought). On the palate this was big, structured, maybe a touch austere with hints of iron in the background. The finish started tight but kept opening up with time. Wow, that nose simply slayed me and this was my 2nd favorite wine of the night. (93 pts.)
  • 1995 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    This was disappointing, with a reticent nose hiding some plummy fruit and notes of vanilla. On the palate this was green, tart and showed lots of tannin. The finish had reasonable length but again had subtle green notes. There was a lot of disappointment when the bag was pulled, as a lot of folks would expect a 95 Brunello from this producer to show a lot better. Was it closed? (87 pts.)
  • 1996 Antinori Solaia - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    My bottle. I double-decanted this at 2PM, and it spent about an hour in the decanter before going back into the bottle. In my opinion, this wine was the single biggest disappointment of the night. The nose was sexy, candied, and very new world. However, the palate was thin, weak and very tight. Is this thing just horribly closed? This was massively acidic! (84 pts.)
  • 1993 Terrabianca Piano del Cipresso Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    This wine had a very mature, faded color in the glass. On the nose I caught some odd notes and a bit of iron perhaps. On the palate this had a very nice entry, dry but with nice sweetness and purity, and maybe a hint of blood (more of that iron). The finish was acidic and tight though. A bit disappointing. (86 pts.)
  • 1995 Melini Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    The nose on this was a bit hot with something slightly off, an odd minty or metallic note. On the palate this was sweet with a nice entry, but the finish was thin and disappointing. Despite that, this did hang together reasonably well and was a solid wine. (87 pts.)
  • 1997 Tenuta Lilliano Vignacatena Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
    My bottle. Wow did this wine show differently than the bottle I had a few nights ago!?! It has loads of oak with some DEEEEEP plummy notes. Wow! On the palate this has lot of everything: fruit, tannin, acid and alcohol. This bottle was drinking "damned young" and had some searing aspect on the finish. Was this wine served too warm? Usually it is smooth and easygoing. Of course, it is usually decanted whereas tonight I served it straight out of the bottle. I have 1/4 of a bottle that I am going to track over the next day or two. (92 pts.)
  • 1998 Col Solare - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
    This was a ringer inspired by the Antinori connection. This has a nose of piercing cherry with lots of wood. The palate had wood, wood, and some more wood. And the finish, big surprise, break out the toothpicks. Yuck! (80 pts.)
  • 1998 Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
    Corked! (FLAWED)
  • 1997 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    This one had nice notes of cherry with lots of oak on the nose. Very sweet entry, searing tannin, settling down with time in the glass. The finish had somewhat drying tannins at first, but with time in the glass this opened up and gained length. Not a great showing for this big name. (89 pts.)
  • 1997 Pratesi Carmignano Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Carmignano
    The first time I smelled this wine I exclaimed "Cocoa Puffs!" This had loads of sugary chocolate on the nose and palate. On the palate it was very angular, tight and tannic, but the finish was "juicy" and kept you coming back for another taste. This was a pretty interesting and enjoyable wine. (89 pts.)
  • 1990 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    In the glass this was clearly very brick and older than other wines we were drinking. The nose was somewhat funky, a bit of barnyard and leathery notes. On the palate this was initially very dry, tight and acidic and not giving much. However, this did amazing things in the glass. With time the palate got sweeter and sweeter, the finish longer and longer. My notes have an initial rating of 86 scribbled out. Then an 88 also scribbled out. Finally it finished up at 92. Apart from a 1990 Gaja Sugarille Brunello I had recently, this was the most interesting Brunello I have ever tasted. I don't know if any of my 97's will ever be this elegant, but this was a classy bottle. Thank you Sue for bringing this! (92 pts.)
  • 1995 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
    My bottle. This was my favorite wine of the night! The nose was reticent and brooding with a smoky note. A bit underwhelming. However, the palate features an astoundingly sweet entry with some nice herbal notes. The finish is powerful, almost searing. This wine has some serious stuffing! This is a real head shaker. Two hours later as I type this I am finishing the last glass from the bottle and am still shaking my head. Gorgeous wine! (94 pts.)
  • 1997 Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    My bottle. This was somewhat disappointing in my opinion. It had a very high-pitched, vegetal note on the nose with a hint of plastic. On the palate this was gorgeously sweet but still slightly green. The finish was very tight. I think this thing is pretty shut down and might have benefited from some decanting. If the green notes and plastic blew off, this would be the wine it is supposed to be! However, I came back to the last glass of this later in the same evening, and it was DELICIOUS! Whatever nastiness I smelled earlier had long since blown off, and now this is a tannic but delicious young Brunello. Darn this is one of the best Brunelli I have ever tasted, so I'm bumping my tasting score of 88 to a much nicer 92. If I drink another bottle in the next 5 years this one will need some careful decanting. (92 pts.)
  • 1998 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
    My bottle. I double-decanted this at 2PM, and it spent about an hour in the decanter before going back into the bottle. This wine was somewhat disappointing, although I mainly think that had to do with it being HUGE, YOUNG and overly primary. It will be interesting to save the other bottle for 5-7 years (10 if I had self control) to see what happens. Anyway, tonight this had some really string notes of coffee and an odd rhubarb element. The palate didn't exhibit much sweetness, yet you could tell this was REALLY holding back. It was tight, closed and young with a searing finish. Loads of tannin. Still, this was well made, powerful and balanced. Just not very pleasurable to drink right now. (89 pts.)
  • 1998 Castello d'Albola Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
    Very thin, not much of a nose. A sweet, pleasant entry to the palate with a moderate finish. Nice, simple drink. (87 pts.)
  • 1997 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
    Ooh, this was a fat, plummy nose! Lots of earthy, tobacco notes on the palate with really solid mouthfeel and structure. This wine is BIG and easily among my favorites of the evening. Hmm, my notes appear to be getting shorter, must be getting tired... (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Argiano Solengo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    This wine was nice on the midpalate with big mouthfeel, but some odd olive notes on the nose and distinct bitterness on the finish really robbed it of being a great wine. (87 pts.)

DESSERT WINES

  • 2001 Navarro Vineyards Gewürztraminer Grape Juice - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
    I threw this into the tasting on a lark. This is non-alcoholic grape juice with the most gorgeous nose you will ever smell (on a glass of grape juice). Beautiful Gewurz. Then you put it in your mouth and remember what you are dealing with as you get a mouthful of sugar. A very stylish non-alcoholic alternative if you ever entertain for someone who can't drink.
  • 2002 Clayman Blanc de Noirs - USA, Iowa
    Sweet wine should not be made in Iowa. Or if someone makes it I shouldn't put it in my mouth. Nothing nice to say here so I'll leave it at that.
  • 1995 Quinta do Vesuvio Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
    Deep ruby, opaque, SEARING young port. Lots of coffee and alcohol with a blackberry liqueur element to it. On the palate there is a gorgeous rush of chocolate and this simply warms your cheeks inside and out like so few wines can. Nice juice!
  • 1920 Compania Mata Málaga - Spain, Andalucía, Málaga
    Roy pulled this oddball sacramental wine from the 1920's out of his cellar. Apparently Málaga had a brief (and legal) run in the US market during prohibition. Roy told us this is the oldest fortified style of wine made in the world. It is aged in chestnut, and that imparts an unreal color to this stuff. In the glass this looked like 10W-40 motor oil, and on the palate it had stunning viscosity. Coffee, cola, lots of heat and herbal notes. An unusual drink to say the least!

Well that's all for now until the next fest. I might report back on a few of the open bottles if they do anything interesting tonight.

Cheers!

 


 
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