Phoenix Society Inaugural Dinner

The plan was to have a couple of whites to start, then two flights of four reds each (theme: great wines that are drinking well today), and a mature Sauternes to finish. Served with pappardelle with a lamb ragu and C's lovely arugula and blue cheese salad, wonderful cheeses to finish. The evening was a smashing success.

• 2011 Hidden Bench Riesling Felseck Vineyard 93 Points

  Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville Bench VQA

  Bright straw colour. Showing some paraffin and complexity on the nose. Lovely citrus on the palate, with bright fruit and bright acidity. Drinking well now, this wine will be at its peak in a couple of years and will drink well for 8 to 10 years.

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• 2009 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Art Series 95 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  My oh my! Brilliant golden colour. On the nose, brioche, flowers, apple, quince, smoke, spice, cardamom. On the palate, multi-layered, with brilliant depth. In a double-blind tasting, many thought this was a great Meursault. Bravo. This should drink well for 7 to 8 years.

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• 1997 Antinori Solaia 94 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  One of my personal favourites, and a perennial performer. Brilliant, deep colour, thick and unctuous in the glass. An intoxicating nose of black fruits, cedar, spice and smoke. On the palate, sweet fruit with great balance and complexity, and the finish seems to go on forever. Fantastic! Drink over the next 15 years.

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• 1982 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Contrary to other recent experiences, this bottle did not show well. The appearance is vibrant and polished, and the aroma is very seductive--with Asian spices, black fruits and undergrowth. On the palate, though, the wine seemed tired and funky. Over the hill? Or perhaps just an unrepresentative bottle?

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• 1996 Pierre Bourée Fils Charmes-Chambertin 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Runner up for WOTN among the reds. Classic, old-style Burgundy, with a lot of time left. Brilliant ruby appearance, awesome nose of red fruits, cloves, Asian spices, some varnish and barnyard. On the palate, a very cerebral experience. I wish I had much more of this. I'm so delighted to have discovered this property in 1994 on my first trip to Burgundy. Drink over the next 10 years.

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• 1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 100 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Unbelievable. Is there more to say? WOTN--by a big margin.
  
  Polished, ruby appearance. The aroma leaps at you, with bacon, smoked meat, beef jus, red and black fruits. On the palate, the wine is complex and giving and so sexy. The Viognier really does wonders for the wine, adding a femininity and complexity and a fourth dimension. If I had to pass away tomorrow, I would be asking for a glass of this as my last drink of wine (or maybe the 91 La Turque). What an exciting, other-worldly experience.

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• 1986 Château Rausan-Ségla 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  A gorgeous wine. Needs time in the decanter to open up, but drinking beautifully, and you won't be making a mistake to try this now. Lovely dark colour, with a tinge of bricking at the rim. Classic left bank nose of black fruits and cedar. Lovely sweetness on the palate, balanced with wonderful acidity and structure. Drink now through 2020.

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• 1990 Château L'Evangile 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Consistent notes with my last bottle: Garnet in colour. A fantastic nose of cedar, undergrowth--"old Bordeaux". Opened several hours in advance of dinking. Medium bodied, sexy mouthfeel, beautiful balance, good fruit. Drink soon.

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• 1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Consistent notes with my last bottle tried: Pauillac doesn't get much better than this. Still brilliantly youthful in its appearance. Barnyard, lead pencil and black fruits on the nose. Gorgeously hedonistic on the palate. A deep, thick wine with gorgeous complexity and length. At its peak, but no hurry to drink. This will go another 15 years quite easily.

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• 1990 Château Latour Grand Vin 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Consistent notes with my last experience with this: Showing a little age through lightening of colour, but no garnet/bricking. Gorgeous, complex aromas of cedar, earth, black fruits. Unbelievable depth on the palate, and layers of taste sensations that go on and on. Beautiful long finish. Was expecting a little more structure to this. Runner up for WOTN. Drink now or over the next 15 years.

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• 1982 Château Suduiraut 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Lovely golden colour. Beautiful appearance in the glass. An intoxicating nose of butterscotch, apricots, pineapple and varnish. Beautiful depth, complexity and balance on the palate with sweet fruit without being cloying.

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WOTN -- 1991 La Mouline

Runners Up -- 1990 Chateau Latour and 1996 Pierre Bouree Charmes Chambertin

Unbelievable White -- 2009 Leeuwin Estates Chardonnay Art Series from Margaret River