NobleRottersSydney - Black&White Labels

For May 2010 Rotters tried our second annual Silly Theme – this was wines with black and white labels only. As usual, a couple of wines pushed the envelope, and some relied on poor ambient lighting to comply. And if I hadn’t been suffering some kind of sinus condition severely limiting my ability to taste, these notes would be more comprehensive. Only eight Rotters tonight, with absentees selfishly hoarding their bottles. It was good of Andrew & Gordon to save the day with extras…

• NV Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Cuvée des Moines Blanc de Blancs

  France, Champagne

  [12.5%, cork] {Andrew} Restrained nose of white flowers. Lighter chardonnay style. Fresh clean palate, finely delicate bubbles, light-medium bodied with medium length. Could use some time for the flavours to build.

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• 2004 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Nahe

  [8%, cork, AP 12 05]{Graeme} Light yet intense nose, with some kerosene-like development with glistening apple/pear fruits. Positively shimmers on the palate; the lightly sweet fruit manages to finish quite dry, faintly prickly acid supports the structure, the persistence is staggering; it’s no less than glorious.

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• 2009 Logan Wines Riesling Weemala

  Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Orange

  [12%, screwcap] {Glenn} Near colourless wine. Limey cool climate notes on the nose; almost painfully young. A tartly youthful palate follows; intense, near medium-bodied, with all the acid you’d expect from the cold centre of NSW. Bone dry. Looks unfairly harsh after the Dönnhoff; ought to settle with a couple of years to a less austere state.

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• 2008 Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir Primavera

  Australia, Tasmania, Southern Tasmania

  [14%, screwcap] {Gordon}
  Youthful nose of light cherry fruits. Boisterously fruity palate, not stewed or confected, with minmimal oak. Some quite astringent tannins are evident, and despite the fairly simple nature of the wine, it covers the palate with flavour and presence pretty well while remaining light-medium bodied. Usually better value than the Estate pinot at twice the price. Around $25 – OK at that price.

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• 2003 Kaesler Avignon

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  [15.5%, cork] {Andrew}
  Ruby-coloured. Big confected nose. All very in-your-face grenache, still quite youthful. The full-bodied palate offers warm, raisined-berry fruits, a medium level of dusty tannins, rather ponderous weight on the mid-palate – all that extract and alcohol – and a medium-length finish. It’s a big bruiser, a party wine, and probably at its best now.

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• 2002 Saltram Cabernet Sauvignon Mamre Brook

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa

  [14%, cork] {David}
  More Barossa than cabernet. A lavish, developing nose of chocolate and liquorice. Same flavours on the palate; the richness of fruit is very attractive if the overall flavour profile is a bit one-dimensional. Still, the ripe flavours, medium-full body, medium powdery tannins, generous mid-palate and medium length finish make it a pertty attractive wine at this age. Ready to drink.

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• 2001 Normans Old Vine Shiraz

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  [14%, cork] {Geoffrey} A repeat showing from last year. Pretty mainstream aged shiraz; spice, aging red berries, an earthy chocolatey quality. Clearly aged on the palate; sweetly decaying ripe fruits, medium body, soft tannins. Sits largely on the front palate. Generally attractive wine, but clearly at or beyond peak.

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• 2001 David Traeger Shiraz

  Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Nagambie Lakes

  [14%, cork] {Stephen} I’ve few notes here for some reason. A leathery, somewhat tarry Victorian red, with some volatility becoming apparent amongst much sediment in my glass. Drink now.

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• 1998 Coriole Shiraz Lloyd Reserve

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  [14.5%, cork] {Greg} A big, somewhat aged nose of plums, liquorie, chocolate and tar. All the best things McLaren Vale has to offer are on show here. The dry, full-bodied palate is still massively high in tannins, thankfully not slathered in oak, as the richness of the fruit – just a touch raisiny – still carries all before it. Less development on the palate than the nose suggests; the flavours are quite youthful and ripely warm. Covers all the palate with its velvety texture, and medium-long finish; on this showing has another ten years at least of development left. Hugely impressive. Vied with Dönnhoff for wine-of-the-night.

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• 1982 Château Montrose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  {Gordon} An endearing sweaty and cigar-box sort of nose that only old Bordeaux does. The structure and powdery tannin is still there; medium-bodied weight and intensity, but the fruit is now dried and faded. On this showing past its best; although there’s still the possibility this was more oxidised than it should have been, despite correct storage. Pleasant and drinkable, but with a nagging sense of something missing.

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• 1993 Tollana Riesling Botrytis

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

  [375ml, 11%, cork] {Andrew} A treasure from the past. One of the great under-rated sweeties. Aged and rich apricot/brassy/botrytis aromas which avoid flatness or oxidation. The palate is all liquid copper and crème brulee flavours, rich yet aged, with a refreshing finish. Medium-bodied, with intense flavours, and nicely-balanced sweetness (ie. not over-the-top). Good strong mid-palate, and medium length finish. A triumphant bottle.

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• 1997 Brown Brothers Late Harvest Orange Muscat & Flora

  Australia, Victoria

  [9.5%, cork] {Andrew} It’s done well to survive; a slightly bitter marmalade-skin-flavoured wine of moderate sweetness. Not complex but pleasant drinking from 750ml bottle.

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Highly annoyed at my olfactory handicap tonight, I’ve got to say. It sure takes the thrills out of drinking.