Les Caves de Pyrene - France, The South West (White)

Three more wines from the south west of France. The first from Irouléguy, an appellation consisting of nine communes, situated in the French Basque country. Much of the vineyard work is artisanal and nearly all the production is red, which makes the Hegoxuri so special, with only half a dozen wine makers in the region but dominated by caves cooperatives. The second wine is from Gaillac, another region more famous for its reds, but with an amazing range of styles on predominantly limestone slopes. Lastly, from the Jurançon, where the wines range from dry, almondy styles with aromas of fresh hay and lemon zest through to the mellow marzipan brioche flavours of the Moelleux.

• 2009 Domaine Arretxea Irouléguy Hegoxuri

  France, Southwest France, Pays Basque, Irouléguy

  A small six-hectare domaine entirely planted on south-facing terraces. Michel and Thérèse practise sustainable viticulture throughout their vineyard & use biodynamics in particular on the plot where they grow white grapes. The Hegoxuri, made from 70% Gros Manseng, 20% Petit Manseng & 10% Petit Corbu, given a forty hour maceration & partially fermented in barrique, is remarkable from it's golden straw colour, to its subtle nose of tropical fruits and white flowers. A wine made in small allocations and with a finish that is long, complex, rich yet austere, a fantastic wine. ****1/2

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• 2008 Clos Lapeyre Jurançon La Magendia Flawed

  France, Southwest France, Jurançon

  The vines of Clos Lapeyre face southwards towards the hound's-tooth Pic du midi d'Ossau with maximum exposure to sunlight yet simultaneously protected from strong winds. The 12ha vineyard has been exhaustively mapped and analysed for soil composition. La Magendia is an Occitan expression meaning the best, however, this particular bottle was clearly not showing the quality that I've known from this producer. I think the bottle may have been slightly reduced with a dumb nose, and a texture on the palate and finish that was not dissimilar to cottage cheese; a big shame.

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• 2008 Domaine d'Escausses Gaillac la Vigne de l'Oubli

  France, Southwest France, Gaillac

  Domaine d'Escausses is located hafway between Albi and the medieval village of Cordes, with a mixture of marne and sedimentary limestone. This wine, a mixture fifteen-to-fifty year old vines, is a barrel fermented blend of Sauvignon, Mauzac and Muscadelle spending twelve months on the lees in new oak and has a subtle flavour of dried fruits and curry spices. However the oak is a little too prominent on the palate which almost cancels out the qualities of the grapes. The finish is long but I feel the oak is just a little too much for me. ***1/2

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