Roumier Dinner with 7 Vintages of Bonnes Mares++++

The Chicago Lieu-dit Cru (my Burgundy tasting group) convened for a Roumier dinner at Boka, a wonderful restaurant in Lincoln Park. Food was sensational (kudos to Giuseppe) and service exceptional. Before getting to the wine I will mention two amazing courses. First, the Duck course (breast and confit) with trumpet mushrooms, bacon gnocchi and (just-off-the-plane) white truffles. Also, the Olive Poached Tasmanian Sea Trout, which was amazing but also included a “bonus” ingredient – snail roe. My first experience ever with snail roe, and since we were told about it after we finished eating the course, I have no other comment other than to be glad that my job isn’t gathering snail roe.

• 1996 Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Aÿ Fût De Chêne Brut 86 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Showing quite old for a wine this young. I have never had this producer's wine before. Was it flawed? Others didn't think so, in which case this is a style of Champagne I don't like - emphasizing bready and yeasty character quite early on without the citrus and energetic character I prefer.

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• 1998 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Corton-Charlemagne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Tasted single blind. Excellent start. Rich and powerful fruit. Lots of opulent fat flavors, very classic Corton Charlemagne. Also interesting cross section of citrus flavors, including lemon, orange and orange peel. Also showed lots of depth and texture. When revealed I was shocked this was the 1998 – one of the best 1998 white Burgs I’ve had.

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• 1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Corton-Charlemagne Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Tasted single blind. Unfortunately, a bit oxidized. Hard to tell the quality level this might have shown, with the oxidation and acidity too dominant over the remaining fruit.

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• 1985 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Single blind flight. Sensational. Red dried cherry on both the nose and palate. Great spicy exciting flavors, still showing amazing floral aromatics. Complete balanced. Wine kept getting better for at least two hours in glass. Really sensational. This was the group’s WOTN (only 2nd place for me for long-term potential).

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• 2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Single blind flight. Lots of interesting red fruit with nice spice. Showed lots of classic Chambolle character, particularly on the nose. Medium weight, might pick up more density with time. I’m a big fan of how most 2000s are showing at present, but this is a wine I’d continue to cellar for a few more years.

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• 2001 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Single blind flight. Red cherry on nose and palate. Slightly off-balance, didn’t seem completely integrated. Slightly bitter finish shows a bit more spice. Other than the 1996 CC described above, the only disappointing wine of all 17 wines. Reading the Burghound review, we saw there was a stuck fermentation, which explained this bottle’s inconsistency with what we’d hope to see from a Roumier Amoureuses

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• 2001 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Musigny 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Spectacularly powerful wine with amazing depth and density. Amazing aromatics perfectly showcasing the spice you’d want from Musigny made with stems. Intense red cherry and wild strawberry from start to finish. This wine was completely balanced and integrated with great minerality and acidity. Kept improving for the 2+ hours I was able to resist finishing my glass. Decanted for 3 hours, I would not open this for another 10-15 years if I were fortunate enough to have any in my cellar.

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• 1988 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Red cherry with lots of earth. Spice comes through more on the nose than palate. This had amazing wonderful aromatics. Big and powerful wine, but I found it slightly muddy on the finish. While this was the Group’s Wine of the Flight, all three wines were closely scored. I actually thought this my least favorite wine of the flight, but perhaps only 1 point behind my favorite.

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• 1993 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Incredibly fresh with lots of bright black fruit and tons of spice. Sensational density and lots of acidity providing an exciting finish. Lots of tannin, but not out of place at all. This was alas my only bottle. I hope to find another to open 5-10 years from now. Another great wine, perhaps 94 points, but not enough to make my top 4 tonight.

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• 1995 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Lots of power. While almost everybody could identify the 1988 in this flight, it was tough telling the 1993 from the 1995, which I consider a testament to the quality of both wines. Also lots of spice and black fruit with classic Bonnes Mares character, while not showing the backwardness the vineyard sometimes shows in less capable hands (or the harshness often seen in many 1995s that are all structure, little fruit). If the 1993 needs 5-10 years, this will benefit from 10-15.

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• 1998 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Incredibly dense black fruit combined with the best youthful aromatics of any wine tonight. Big tannins and acidity are perfectly balanced with the fruit. Exceptional length with an explosive spicy finish. Part of what I adore in this wine is that it showcases everything great about Bonnes Mares AND everything great about the 1998 vintage. I adore this wine. This was the 3rd or 4th time I have had it in the past two years, and it keeps getting better. I am thrilled to have almost a case in my cellar. My 4th place wine of the evening.

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• 1999 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Ripe black cherry and blackberry on nose and palate with swirling, intoxicating spice. Fruit has an intensity that just explodes. Shows the ripeness of the vintage and Roumier style, but also perfect balance and incredible length and depth. This was the first time I have had this wine – and it's my Wine of the Night. I had incredible anxiety returning home from dinner -did I open my only bottle?!?! I was relieved to see I have 3 more. Until last night, Dujac 1978 was the best Bonnes Mares I’ve ever tasted. No longer. Hmmm…my wine of the Year? Probably not, I will have to look at what I tasted at La Paulee, but probably my WOTY for a wine consumed more "normally."

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• 2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. In this flight, I found it easy to identify which glass was the 1998 and which was the 1999, but then struggled between the 2000 and 2001 (and got them wrong). Both were quite nice but lost in the company of the two spectacular prior vintages. The 2000 was a bit less interesting, and surprisingly a bit lean for a 2000 Burg. Perhaps this is more classic Bonnes Mares, simply in need of time. Still, graceful, spicy and elegant. More spice for me than fruit, which again is a surprise for the vintage.

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• 2001 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Very pretty wine, with lots of nice fruit and spice. Being fairly fruit forward, I think that almost hides the tannins, which are silky and seem a bit "shrinking violet" for Bonnes Mares tannins. I thought this was the 2000 Bonnes Mares because it was surprisingly forward. I preferred it to what turned out to be the 2000 (described in that note).

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Forgive me, but I am oddly having trouble reading my notes from this point forward so am working from limited memory. This flight was less interesting than the others, far more straightforward, less nuanced.

• 1988 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Powerful, gorgeous wine, lush fruit with perfect balance of fruit and structure for a wine of its age. I'm a fan of the 1988 vintage, and this wine's performance tonight is the reason why. This bottle was the star of the flight. Many of us thought it was the 1990 when tasted single blind.

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• 1990 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Very nice wine with lush fruit, good spice and minerality. But a bit sweeter and less complex than I would be expecting from a Gevrey Grand Cru. Most others at the dinner enjoyed this wine more.

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• 1995 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Single blind flight. Cherry and spice with some noticeable oak. Everything was big on the palate - black fruit, tannin, minerailty, acidity, spice. Not completely integrated in the middle, but great length with a spicy finish. I enjoyed this wine more than others, as much for potential as for its flavors tonight. I found it to be a very clear and transparent wine, truly showing Gevrey Grand Cru character.

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• 2005 Hospices de Beaune Corton-Cuvée Charlotte Dumay Roumier

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  I opened this for fun, and to confuse everybody. It was decanted for 5-6 hours prior to serving. Black cherry and and blackberry on nose and palate with more the smell fresh garden herbs. The vintage ripeness came through, but none of the coarseness I expect from young Corton. I almost never buy Hospices wine, but am glad I took this chance. Although I’m not really taking much of a chance buying any wine made by Christophe Roumier. Served blind to group, only I knew what it was. Of course at this point in the evening, I wasn't even 100% certain. Very enjoyable.

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The Lieu-dit Cru has had some really great dinners before (RSV and Richebourg come to mind) but this dinner might have topped them all.