Sunday Afternoon Chablis

• 2010 Domaine Costal Chablis Les Truffières

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Light yellow. A riot of green scents. Discrete wood gives a rather lush entry and glycerine around the core. Saline, excellent acidity, lime in the background. This is a celebration of chlorophyll, inimitably Chablis and overall, quite a wine for the price.

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• 2010 Francine et Olivier Savary Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Medium yellow. Saline and oyster shell aromas. Light weight, very pure and clean-must be done in stainless? Not quite the ringing acidity of the Costal, but still no slouch in this regard. Most impressive for its earthy minerality and stone dust finish. Great impact without heaviness. This couldn't be anything other than Chablis. Stunning value.

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• 2010 Domaine Romain Collet Chablis 1er Cru Montmains

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Medium yellow. Attractive aromatics of flowers and green herbs with some wood apparent. Distinctly riper than any of the other 2010s today, even a bit tropical. Lush, polished feel, dominated by dry finishing wood tannins. For me, too full, too ripe, too much lumber.

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• 2010 Domaine Romain Collet Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Same color as the Montmains. Airier nose than that wine. More salinity, good acidity and properly tart finish, but again, lots of vanillin imparted by the oak comes out in the mid-palate and finish. I do prefer this to the Montmains but would not buy either one.

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• 2009 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Light yellow. Very floral, sea breeze aromas. Light with wonderful feel-a little wood and honeysuckle. Lemon custard fruit, remarkable mineral underpinning, already has subtle complexity at this young age. I particularly like the restraint and structure for an '09. Consistent with a note from 6 months ago.

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Yes, the Raveneau was Raveneau and a really good 2009 at that, but the real stars were the 2 inexpensive wines from Costal and Savary, both of which can be enthusiastically recommended. Which one you prefer will depend upon your appreciation of or tolerance for some oak in the mix.