Two Camhis are better than one as Howard Camhi comes back for more: Riesling, Savennières, Burgundy and Bordeaux

Only five or so weeks removed from his last visit, Howard Camhi was back in town again and this time I was able to get another Camhi around the dinner table. Suzanne Camhi was finally free to join Howard Chez Brad and Kenny Shusterman and Jay Miller also made the trek to the Upper East Side. With such a wild and crazy group, the only possible outcome was an evening full of hilarity and tasty wines!

Brad

• 2010 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Auction

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Got the evening off to a great start. The wine was brilliant with a vivacious, yet focused personality. Aromatically effusive with passion fruit, peach and mineral trapping ones nose in the glass like a cat to catnip. Chipper acidity balances out the moderate sweetness perfectly. The passion fruit lends a racy character across the palate along with the steely mineral notes. Just a snappy and invigorating wine with terrific depth. A/A-.

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• 1997 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie Spéciale

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières

  Jay whips this out and announces that it was a gift from a mysterious stranger he bumped into in the confined quarters of the Chelsea Wine storage lockers. Somehow this stranger was under the impression that I'm a fan of this wine. Now, I've liked the '95 best of the Trie Speciale bottlings, but those bottlings are my least favorite in the Baumard Savennières lineup because of the malolactic fermentation they go through which gives the wines a plush, creamy mouthfeel while softening the acidic spine the other bottlings show. The '97 shows that clearly. Additionally, while there's pleasant quince, bitter almond, yellow floral tones and mineral present, there's also too much alcohol showing, which was a concern a number of us Loireheads had about many '97 whites on release. The alcohol was even more disjointed and obvious the next day when I went back to it. B.

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• 1991 Bernard Amiot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Quite perfumed on the nose with pretty cherry, underbrush and flower aromas. Elegant, classy and layered on the palate with nice purity to the fruit. Good red fruit levels, with dried flowers and a bit of spice. Plenty of secondary development and maybe just a touch of green on the back end. The finish also shows a light bitter licorice note and fades off just a touch. Quite nice, though. Low A-.

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• 2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  There's some decent crunchy red fruit here, but the wine is dominated by wood and there's just not enough fruit to ever absorb it all. In fact, the wine already shows signs that it's starting to dry out. Drink up while there's still fruit. B-/B.

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• 2010 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Quite a gregarious wine here. It's boisterous and brimming with ripe black and red fruit, purple flowers, spice and a hint of cocoa. Lush and fruit forward, though there's sound structure underneath. Eminently slurpable and enjoyable now, but it could use some time to come together. A-.

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• 1978 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Corked.

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• 1997 Edmunds St. John Syrah Durell Vineyard Flawed

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  Corked.

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• 1986 Château Gruaud Larose

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Just a touch of Cordier funk on the nose with pleasing currant, herb, tobacco and chocolate aromas. Rather slow to unwind on the palate and I've had more forward bottles with greater fruit levels, but this is showing nicely. Nice development here with mellowed and harmonious fruit, earth, leather and herb flavors dominating with a nice smokey edge. Just a bit drying on the finish. Most bottles I've had of the '86 have shown better. In fact, it's one of my favorite vintages of Gruaud, but this bottle still puts a smile on my face. Low A-.

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• 2005 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Auction

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Riper, sweeter and showing a heavier mineral character than the Zilliken. The fruit is more in the orange color/tropical realm with nectarine, mango, guava and honey flavors and aromas. It still shows some youthful spritz and while ripe and densely textured, there's more than ample acidity to balance it out. Terrific wine. A/A-.

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Some pictures from the evening.

The group.


The wines.


Morel and cremini risotto.


Pork tenderloin with leek purée and roasted baby Yukon gold potatoes with rosemary.


Bye, bye! Come back again!