Monthly Bojo Night: Older Moulin-à-Vent (+ one Fleurie) and two older Vouvrays
Tasted Wednesday, April 16, 2014 by octopussy with 397 views
Introduction
After a two month break, our monthly Bojo group met again. The plan was to drink some 2005 Moulin-à-Vents, but while looking for them in his cellar, our host found some older bottles that need to be drunk and decided to give them a try. We drank all wines open (except for the two Vouvrays which were served blind), started with the 2000 and 2002s and had the two 2003s with a delicious "Boeuf au Morgon". All Beaujolais were served at around 15° C.
Flight 1 - 2000 Coudert Fleurie Cuvée Tardive + two 2002 Moulin-à-Vents (3 Notes)
We started the night with a 2000 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive, which was more Moulin-à-Vent than Fleurie in character. It was showing its age only slightly and still had fairly sturdy tannins and a good structure. A very good bottle, but maybe lacking the finesse of the two wines to come. As a nice coincidence, our host served the Diochon 2002 Moulin-à-Vent VV which I had drank only the week before. Both bottles were bought at the domaine upon released and stored in very good cellars, but this bottle was just much better than the one the week before. It had the same piercing minerality, but also a very pleasant nose (which the bottle the week before did not have) and overall more harmony to it. I also loved the Jadot 2002 Grand Carquelin, which was a bit more finetuned than the Diochon, but without its stunning minerality.
Flight 2 - Two 2003 Moulin-à-Vents (2 Notes)
Then with dinner we had two 2003 Moulin-à-Vents. The 2003 Vissoux Moulin-à-Vent "Rochegrès" was the second to last "Rochegrès" at the domaine. Afterwards they first bought a parcel in "La Rochelle" and integrated it into a wine named "Les deux Roches" (of which, I think, there was only a 2005 produced). Then they started buying grapes from "Roche Noire" and since then, there's the "Les trois Roches" bottling, which is the only Moulin-à-Vent currently at Vissoux. The wine was alright, quite fragrant, but a bit simple overall. It went well with the Boeuf though. The Janin was pretty much over the hill, still drinkable with a bit of pleasure, not one for the drain, but its elements wouldn't fit together anymore.
Flight 3 - Two older Vouvrays (2 Notes)
To finish the night, we were served two wines blind. My guess was Riesling Kabinett or Spätlese from the Ruwer or Saar from the mid-80s, but I was dead wrong. Both wines were Vouvrays that our host had bought ex domaine upon release and stored it in his great cellar since then. Both wines were very fresh, not showing their age at all and simply delicious to drink. The Moelleux at this age was easier to drink as it had more sweetness to balance the quite strong acidity. The best point about these two wines was that they were great to drink without having to give too much thought to their age, timeless beauties. Apparently, Domaine Raymond Bordier no longer exists, but Domaine Allias is still active and sells its Vouvrays at quite low prices.
Closing
It's a bit odd, but the two 2003s had a very strong juniper note that I already noticed recently in a 2003 Desvignes Côte du Py Javernières. For me it's too early to say that it's a vintage characteristic (I didn't sense it in a 2003 Coudert Cuvée Tardive recently drunk), but it was super strong in the two bottles we had that night. The two 2002s were the clear winners that night, the Jadot super fine and elegant, the Diochon more on the opulent side, but also with lots of finesse.
We were all pleasantly surprised by the two Vouvrays, which were very, very fresh, lively and delicious to drink without giving a thought to their age.
2000 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Cherry red, slightly brownish towards the rim. Very fine in the nose, slightly herbal/vegetal, dried tobacco, autumn leaves, strawberry and plum fruit. Quite fragrant and pleasant. In the mouth, this is very lively with fairly sturdy tannins, medium to strong acidity, but then silky in the very fine and elegant finish. Very good and will hold for another two or three years, but there's no point in waiting any further.
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2002 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
One week after the last bottle, I had the chance to revisit this wine (from another cellar). Quite dark plummy red. Fantastic in the nose, a bit balsamic, dried meat again, plums, tobacco, very fragrant and elegant. Fantastic also in the mouth, very, very mineralic, very fine, too, red and black currant, excellent structure, super fine, silky, very harmonic. Long finish. A fantastic bottle.
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2002 Louis Jadot Moulin-à-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin Château des Jacques 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Transparent cherry red. In the nose, this is very spicy, oriental spices like cardamom and cinnamon, fine fruit on the red side of the spectrum (red currant, sour cherry), slightly waxy, too. In the mouth, this has medium plus acidity, a very fine structure bordering on fragile, but with a sturdy backbone, spicy again, fine fruit. Long with a nice lingering acidity in the finish. Excellent with lots of finesse.
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