Wine dinner with Chateau Leoville Barton & Langoa Barton during ProWein 2010
Dusseldorf
Tasted Thursday, March 25, 2010 by PanosKakaviatos with 434 views
Introduction
Over four years ago, I took stock of and gave thanks again for the existence of Chateau Langoa Barton and the vineyards of the more famous Chateau Leoville Barton.
The actual estate, located in the northern part of St Julien and belonging to the Barton family for centuries, is called Langoa, a very good third growth with some 25 hectares of vines. The better second growth of Leoville, with about 47 hectares of vines on better plots, some closer to the Gironde, is also vinified at Langoa. Both wines are justifiably known for their high quality at affordable prices.
The Barton family had not invested in optic sorting machines, nor did they have multiple sorting tables or individual de-stemmers, but since Anthony Barton took over from his Uncle Ronald in the 1980s, the estates have picked later with more attentive vineyard picking - with smoother wines as a result.
But the wines are not modern. No pigeages here, never ultra ripe pickings. Taste Leoville Poyferre and Leoville Barton, and you can see a difference in style. I like both Poyferre and Barton, but have a particular soft spot for the Barton freshness.
One thing is certain: the Barton wines obtain high scores from both Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson. From La Revue de Vin de France to Vinum Magazine. In short: all around acclaim.
Sure, you do not find the same level of intensity and concentration - or Pauillac style power - that you find at Leoville Las Cases, where selection is stricter and the terroir arguably better.
But Las Cases costs a lot more, too. And in this day and age of super high-priced Bordeaux, this is an increasingly important factor. And for the price, what you often obtain is a prototype of St Julien: elegance combined with structure, the proverbial mix of Pauillac firmness with Margaux silk. One of my favorite Leovillle Bartons has been the 1999, for example, which I had enjoyed in 2009 at the estate just as they finished the harvest.
Anthony Barton is a true gentleman and has a great sense of humor both disarming and witty. He is also very serious about making the best possible wine he can while also making it as affordable as possible. Consultants Jacques and Eric Boissenot (Jacques, who died in 2014, actually worked with and not under Emile Peynaud, he always stressed) ensured quality. Daughter Lilian works with the same passion and sense of humor as her father. The estate was one of the first I ever visited in the Medoc, back in 2001, and I make it a point to visit any chance I get.
So, it was great to taste a series of wines from both Langoa (third growth) and Leoville during ProWein 2010 in Germany.
2004 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Very charming and cedar like, with more evident black cherry and cassis fruit on the nose and palate; this is on a faster evolutionary track than the 2000, but not too dissimilar. I like the balance on the palate between freshness and richness and a smooth lingering finish. With time, the wine picked up more weight, a good sign for further aging of course (the 02s are perhaps more focused, if slightly less rich). A poor-man’s 2000? Well, anyone would be well off with a bunch of Barton 04s. Also a good pairing with the duck, but the 2000 is more powerful.
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2005 Château Léoville Barton 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Impressive and foreboding, although decanted three hours before the dinner. Rather dark color, the nose only grudgingly evokes cedar and cassis, Cabernet hallmarks, with a floral lift that was much more in evidence when tasted in January 2008 in New York. The wine has closed down. The palate is voluminous without being heavy, with foreboding tannins but not as beastly as the tannins in the 2000, when I tasted the 2000 in May 2006. Perhaps 2005 is slightly more refined, with slightly finer tannins than the 2000? Lilian Barton believes so, but she also said that she was ‘pleasantly surprised’ with the 2000. The 2005 is certainly not to open now. I would say not even from half bottle formats. Certainly a wine for many, many years in the cellar; anyone who bought this should be very happy. Probably 96-97 points for the future but do not bother today!
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2000 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
More effusive on the nose, with lead pencil and ripe cassis as well as light hints of charcoal, the wine has lost just a bit of the beastly tannic edge when I tried it in Berlin in May 2006. Four years later, it is still somewhat unruly, with powerful tannins, but there is a layered richness and harmony on the mid palate and onto the finish that make it a top-tier Medoc from the 2000 vintage. I especially like its mid-palate substance and persistent ripe red/black fruit finish. Its tannic power was a nice foil however for the rich duck. Still not ready, 93+ now, but 95 points in 5-10 years no doubt. For reference, just try the beguiling 1982!
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