San Diego WineSpectator.com Offline, 10/10/2014
Solare Restaurant, Liberty Station, Point Loma, San Diego CA
Tasted Friday, October 10, 2014 by Javachip with 689 views
Introduction
Dinner consisted of a four course menu featuring the first white truffles of the season, fresh from Italy. First course was warm egg custard with shaved truffles and oyster mushrooms. Simple, elegant presentation and rich flavors. Second course was white truffle risotto. It was delicious, though the presentation was lacking, just a shaky green rim of basil oil around a blob of risotto topped with more truffle shavings. Third course was flat iron Angus steak marinated with thyme and rosemary, with Amaro Averna reduction. Plating and presentation were fine, and the portion size was generous, enough to get us through a dozen bottles of red wine. Clearly this cut of beef is not as tender as a filet, but the flavor was excellent. Fourth course was chocolate panna cotta -- outstanding in every respect. Is there such a thing as bad chocolate? We also ordered some cheese plates, since we had far too much wine for a mere four courses. Our group was very pleased with the dining experience. The private dining room was ideal for our party of 16. Service was professional and attentive, but also relaxed and unpretentious -- not snooty like some other restaurants. This will be a contender for any future Italian wine dinner, especially if fresh truffles are involved.
On to the wines. Rankings are by group vote; notes and scores are my own.
2011 István Szepsy Furmint Tokaji Urban 94 Points
Hungary, Tokaji
Clear light straw color. An outstanding, fresh, crisp dry wine with 14% alcohol. Distinctive, highly attractive notes of stony minerality, white grapefruit pith, Meyer lemon, chamomile, touch of smoky grilled thyme. ShaneT noted beeswax. Light-medium body. A delicious wine with a unique identity. My #4 tonight.
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2011 Tili Umbria L'ETRUSCO 90 Points
Italy, Umbria
Clear light yellow. Notes of grilled pineapple, golden kiwi, smoky oak, Meyer lemon. Medium-full body with tart finish. Blend of pinot (not sure which type) and chardonnay.
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1989 Gaja Barbaresco 96 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Perfect cork and capsule. No sediment, not decanted. Allowed to breathe in glass 15 minutes. Clear ruby-blood red. Bouquet of bright fresh red fruit, hoisin sauce, barbecue, red roses and/or violets, stony soil, potpourri, old clean leather gloves. Fabulous structure, precise, everything in perfect balance. Noticeable tannins are polished and refined, suggesting many more good years ahead, giving pleasant bite and making this a quintessential Italian wine. My #1, group's FIRST PLACE.
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2006 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Clear medium ruby color. Restrained bouquet of smoky dark fruit, musk, extinguished campfire. Similar on the palate, closed, tight, tannic, needs several more years to open. But the structure and purity are there. The group liked it very much, awarding it THIRD PLACE (tie).
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1987 Elio Altare Barolo 95 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Decanted. Hazy blood-ruby-brick red. Bouquet of bright fresh sour red cherries, leather, violets, roses, earth, tar. Medium body, balanced, nice tannic bite. Very Italian. My #3, group's THIRD PLACE (tie).
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1997 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Spuntali 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Hazy blood-brick red with coarse sediment. Notes of cherry-rhubarb pie, prunes, leather, figs, caramel. Balanced, seamless, medium-full body.
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2004 Tenuta Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 88 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Clear dark inky garnet color. Muted, closed bouquet of dusty dark fruit, cocoa, leather, forest floor. Palate better than bouquet. Medium-full body with generous fruit, excellent structure and balance. Too young now, likely to improve significantly in a few years with proper storage.
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2005 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 94 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
Decanted 1 hour. Clear dark inky garnet. Brooding bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, black currant liqueur, forest floor, baking spices. Tight, closed, still too young, destined for greatness in several more years, but already enjoyable. Don't open this any earlier than you would open a 2005 First Growth or Super Second Bordeaux. Group's FOURTH PLACE (tie).
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2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 91 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Decanted, but nevertheless had a cloudy opaque appearance in the glass, with heavy sediment. Notes of baked cherries, raisins, leather, earth, cocoa, cloves. Full body with excellent balance and structure. Firm, chewy tannins. Several of us thought this wine seemed young, with good potential for further improvement. The group liked it more than I did, awarding it SECOND PLACE tonight.
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2000 Château Léoville Poyferré 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Decanted 1 hour. Clear dark garnet. Powerful bouquet of black fruit, cocoa, cloves, charcoal. Full body, massive wine with acidity and tannins providing superb balance and structure. Still tight and tannic. Several years ago I wrote this is "still a baby" and to give it at least five more years. Today, it has grown into a toddler named Bam-Bam. Remember The Flintstones? Please wait five more years. My #2 and group's FOURTH PLACE (tie).
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1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cloudy dark brick-oxblood-mahogany color. Peculiar bouquet of evergreen, mincemeat, spiced apples, raisins and figs. Someone else mentioned pickles. If blindfolded, I might guess old white wine. Not sure what to make of this bottle.
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2004 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 93 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Clear medium garnet color. Superb wine with notes of red raspberries, cherries, leather, potpourri, red clay. Pleasant tannins, excellent balance and structure.
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2003 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT 88 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
50:50 sangiovese & merlot. Clear dark garnet color. Notes of cooked red fruit, wood, musk, clean wet dog, clean barnyard. Excellent with food.
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2001 Ruffino Romitorio Di Santedame Toscana IGT 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
60:40 colorino & merlot. Cloudy dark garnet color with heavy sediment in the glass. I did not observe how the bottle was handled before serving. Lovely bouquet of fresh red cherries, plums, cloves, nutmeg, leather. Excellent balance, medium-full body, pleasantly tannic.
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2003 Château Rieussec 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Decanted, then re-bottled 14 hours before tasting. Clear light honey-gold color. Decadent bouquet of apricots, honey, allspice, cotton candy. Viscous, unctuous, very sweet, but with enough hidden acidity to provide some structure. Rich, concentrated, hedonistic.
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