Menu for Di, Jean-Christophe, Liz and Bud

A rather large tasting menu to showcase some excellent wines. Recipes courtesy of 11 Madison Park, Momofuku Ko, Modernist Cuisine, Chez Panisse and Mugaritz.

Strawberries and Rubarb
Asparagus and Quinoa
Scallops and Melon
Surf and Turf
Pig and Cherries
Lamb and Beans
Rib and Radish
Malt and Olive
Berries and Bubbles

• 1996 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Spectacular showing for this bottle. The acid balance is immense - so much so that the wine almost feels dry on the finish. Opulent nose with plenty of bottle age honey and depth. The palate is large scaled, mineral, multi-dimensional and enjoys a huge and lengthy finish. All this and 7.5%. Easily the best kabinett I have drunk. Drinking perfectly now.

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• 2008 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Choisilles 90 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire

  Herbal and dry with an excellent dose of new oak that does not inhibit the feeling of terroir. Still quite young but has wonderful balance. Well matched to an asparagus and quinoa salad.

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• 2011 Dawson & James Chardonnay Tasmania 88 Points

  Australia, Tasmania

  Fine wine that is quite French in style - for my palate. In fact, tasted blind (wine options style), I first went for France, then the North Island of New Zealand and then Western Australia. Generous toasted French oak melds well with quite high acid chardonnay fruit. Good depth and complexity and a fine sense of style. Not a good match with a seviche of scallops and watermelon.

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• 1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  As always, a stunning bottle of wine that in its idiosyncratic way appears to be ageless. Oxidative notes join with honeysuckle and fresh herbs to stunning effect. I thought I detected elevated alcohol when first drunk with the dish of Poussin and Prawns with seaweed and brown butter but in no way did it detract from its harmonious, complex and powerful impression. The wine of the night for me during an evening that included Harlan Estate 1997 and Beaucastel Hommage 1994!!

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• 1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  A picture of refinement - the essence of Mouvedre and drinking at a brilliant plateau at the moment. Farmyard, wild raspberries and sweet cherry (which was beautiful with the pickled cherries in the Pigs Head Torchon) and leather notes intermingle in an almost Burgundian manner. The palate is so refined - not an aspect of the wine is out of place and the gamey aspects of the nose translate beautifully to the palate. Not a blockbuster wine - rather a wine of poise, balance and tremendous character.

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• 1997 Harlan Estate 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Drunk directly after the Chateau de Beaucastel Hommage Jacques Perrin 1994, this was for my palate of equivalent quality but vastly different in terms of style. Upon opening this wine displayed a huge nose of sweet chocolate covered cherries alongside opulent currant and plummy fruit. Veering towards a slightly porty impression. Quite a bit of VA about, but I like this aspect of the Harlan style as it adds lift. Nevertheless, the 1997 has more VA than is the norm for this estate, in my experience. Very modern, very Napa. In the mouth, the richness of the nose is confirmed. Plush and silky texture, still very young (for instance this wine feels far younger than the 1999 Harlan Estate drunk earlier in the year. This wine does everything well - everything is perfectly formed - the proportion of the wine is huge but the balance is there. Huge concentration, with a finish that is unbelievable. I like the way the wine keeps on delivering in the mouth. It has nothing to do with Bordeaux and I can see how many tasters could label it as 2 dimensional. I disagree but I do acknowledge that the richness and sweetness of the fruit can mask the other nuances the wine offers. Currently the wine is not about Bordeaux cedar and herbs! This is not a wine to serev blind in a Bordeaux line-up. unless you want to be laughed at... This is a wine comfortable in its skin - it is echt - California and should not be expected to conform to a Bordeaux benchmark. and Drinkable but still young and I can see this lasting quite some time - I look forward to checking in with it in the future.

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• 2003 Château Guiraud 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Massive richness and sweetness as befits the vintage but the wine has the requisite balance to keep it from becoming flabby as many 2003s are want to be. Caramel and roast apricot goodness. Drunk with an 11 Madison Park recipe of Malt sorbet, olive oil emulsion and black pepper - this was a match made in heaven - quite the best dessert I have had to have with sweet wine. Super long, with a very refined palate structure. Outstanding. I would drink these sooner rather than later as I imagine this might turn flabby with age.

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