Ripple Restaurant in Washington D.C.
Tasted Wednesday, January 14, 2015 by PanosKakaviatos with 539 views
Bouchard Père & Fils is the largest estate in Burgundy's famous Côte d'Or. At least since 2003, I have been a regular taster of wines made by Bouchard and appreciate winemaking director Philippe Prost's aim towards elegance and finesse as an overall style. Indeed, even in hot vintages like 2003 the wines can convey much poise and verve. At a November 2014 dinner tasting at the gorgeous Chateau de Beaune headquarters - a formal royal fortress built in the 15th century - guests appreciated an exceptionally bright yet concentrated and thoroughly youthful Chevalier Montrachet Les Cabottes. An example of a white wine from that torrid vintage that is doing very well. And so said such well-known French wine critics present at the dinner, Bernard Burtschy and Michel Bettane. "It is a very misunderstood vintage," Burtschy remarked at my table. While Bettane took a mic and made more detailed remarks about how Bouchard took the right steps to combine acidity with opulence. In any case, many thanks to owners Henriot, as they regularly send me samples of Bouchard wines from the most recent vintage available in bottle to share with fellow winelovers and connoisseurs in Washington D.C. Our group included a mix of trade representatives - such as wine tour organiser Annette Schiller, Ben Giliberti of Calvert Woodley and Tim O'Rourke of Weygandt; bloggers like Christian Schiller and active wine forum writers such as Howard Cooper and Kevin Shin, who is a member of the prestigious Grand Jury Europeen. Kevin and I regularly meet in April during the Bordeaux en primeur tastings. And some of Washington D.C.'s most avid (and enthusiastic) wine buyers including Chris Bublitz and Ken Barr among others.
What to make of 2012?
As you can read in this fine summary of the harvest by Burgundy expert Clive Coates - http://www.clive-coates.com/news/2012-vintage - the vintage was made from mid July onwards as poor weather up to the summer limited potential crop yields so that while overall quality in 2012 is very good, it is not a copious vintage.
The focus among most critics is on the reds, and based on my still limited experience tasting whites from 2012, I notice that some can be flabby, as if coming from a warmer than average vintage. Tim O'Rourke, who sells wine and has tasted many white 2012s, concurs and remarked that 2012 is not particularly successful for whites. And yet, among the three whites that we sampled from Bouchard, only one showed that bit of fat. The second one was very good and the third excellent. So, although white 2012s from Burgundy overall may lack the verve of, say, 2008 or 2010, we had a rather good experience with the three Bouchard whites that we tried.
As for the 6 reds that we tried from 2012, they seemed to resemble more the opulence of the 2009s and less than the balance and tension of the 2010s. The 2012s do not seem to have as much structure and foreboding tannin of the 2005s, albeit with one notable exception...
In any case, 2012 is touted at least as a very, very good red vintage, and I would not disagree, based on our tasting. Fellow taster Kevin Shin remarked that the ripeness levels approached the maximum before reaching over-ripe levels, so overall, quite a friendly vintage for some of the reds, including for example the Bouchard Pere & Fils Greves Vignes de L'Enfant Jesus 2012 that was "very welcoming." A very welcoming Jesus :-). Another example was a very ripe and friendly Gevrey Chambertin village level wine. But not all the red 2012s we tried were as accessible so young. Tasted next to the Jesus was the Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, and one taster - I think it was Ben Giliberti - made the remark that it almost had the structure of a Bordeaux. All in all, however, these young reds exuded tannin as expected yet they seemed to be, at least aromatically, "open for business" if not on the palate.
Just one note on pricing. Sadly Bouchard is not immune to the ever skyscraping prices of fine Burgundy. Certainly not all appellations and producers have gone up as high, but many of them have reached prices that worry the Burgundy negoce, a sentiment that was expressed by many at the press conference held in November 2014 for the Hospices de Beaune. When I was at Calvert Woodley one day last week, for example, owner Michael Sands remarked that "in such a short time, we have seen village level wines sell for prices that premiers crus had but two years ago." I noticed that Calvert Woodley is selling the Bouchard Meursault Les Clous (a lieu dit but not a premier cru) for $62. That wine only cost about $40 a couple of years ago... https://www.calvertwoodley.com/wines/2012-Bouchard-Meursault-Les-Clous-w6256045ei. So alas, prices have reached peaks that are no longer attainable for many consumers.
All in all, a great tasting with fun wineloving friends!
NV J.L. Vergnon Rosémotion 90 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
An excellent non vintage rose bubbly made with nearly 90% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Noir. Strawberry flavors but softly expressed with fine petillance and a smooth palate texture, almost creamy. Dry and medium in its flavor intensity. An excellent grower's rose at about $60 retail.
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2008 J.L. Vergnon Confidence 92 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Enjoyed just after the rose, this costs more - at about $100 per bottle - but also has more intensity and substance. 2008 has lots of acidity and this is no exception. As Tim O'Rourke, who kindly supplied the Champagne this evening, noted: far too early to enjoy. Indeed, but a nice window into the vintage. Red and green apple flavors on the palate, high acidity - almost searing for the moment - with juiciness however. If you try now, get some oysters, scallops or shrimp.
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2008 Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs Les Francs de Pieds
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
I am not sure about this particular bottle as it seemed just a bit musky on the nose. Far better on the palate, with - again - that high 2008 acidity that was more pronounced here as the previous wine, made from Chardonnay, conveyed a smoother palate.
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