Vega-Sicilia with Pablo Álvarez

Tenzing, Chicago
Tasted Thursday, April 16, 2015 by NineteenEightyTwo with 427 views

Introduction

Hart Davis Hart welcomes Pablo Álvarez of Vega-Sicilia to taste wines from Bodegas Alion, Bodegas Pintia, and Vega-Sicilia.

Flight 1 (12 Notes)

  • 2008 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia 88 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

    Rosewood color with violet rim. The nose started out restrained, though this expanded as the wine became emboldened with aeration. This was made in a more elegant style than is common for this region, with red berry flavors and a subtle spiciness transitioning into a long, tightly tannic finish. The oak on this was far more understated than on the 2009 Pintia, which was more forward and overt. I prefer the 2008, though I'd allow at least five more years in the cellar for this to bloom.

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  • 2010 Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia Rioja Macan 90 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Rosewood color with violet rim. Meaty and green nose with a subtly sweet note. Palate is amply fruity, showing a deft touch of oak and long, grainy tannins. More broad and immediately accessible than the 2009, this was a crowd favorite with a long life ahead of it.

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  • 2009 Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia Rioja Macan 89 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Rosewood color with violet rim. Multilayered nose of beef blood, seasoning salt and mint. The palate on this is more linear and restrained than the expansive 2010, making the wine less immediately accessible. However, the strong tannic support combined with the intriguing density of the nose makes me believe this will be a future standout.

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  • 2007 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero 87 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Pure crimson color, starting to show a little bit of maturity. This had a nose with a sweet and woodsy note reminiscent of maple syrup. Surprisingly, the palate was very subdued by comparison. Several fellow tasters wondered aloud whether this might have entered a dumb period, given the immediate and expressive character of the 2009. Would revisit this without prejudice in a few years.

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  • 2009 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° 92 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Medium-dark carmine color. Sweetly spicy nose of cola, with a somewhat sappy quality. This has an elegant palate of light, bright red fruit in the grip of long, super-structured tannins. Delightful now but I'd be happy to lay this down for the long haul. Better than the 2008.

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  • 2004 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 93 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Crimson color. Stunning nose of anise, spicy fruit, charcoal. Gorgeous palate with pure, gentle fruit flavors accented by a somewhat hot finish. Eye-opening wine for the complexity of aromas and flavors, and the purity and elegance of the palate. Obviously superior to the 2002 and equal to the excellent 2003. Will likely remain lively for a decade or more.

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  • 2002 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 91 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Crimson color. Exotic nose of fresh cut aloe. Dry, stony palate with lingering notes of Asian spices. This is more subdued than the quite forward 2004. Very Old World in style, this is not immediately arresting but provides subtly pleasurable drinking now.

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  • 2009 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia 87 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

    Violet color with a light rim. Ample oak and sweet vanilla on the toasty nose. Very forward and somewhat internationally-styled, surprising given the other wines in the family. The vintner expressed the intention to use oak judiciously in order to create a less rustic wine than is customary for this Denominación de Origen. While that philosophy was evident with the graceful 2008, the subsequent vintage seems to have gone in the other direction.

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  • 2009 Bodegas y Viñedos Alión Ribera del Duero 89 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Rosewood color. Expressive nose with vegetal and musty aromas. Maple and cigarette butts. The palate is lean and elegant but incorporates some of the bold exoticism of the nose. This showed far better than the very sedate 2007, and should continue to evolve through the end of the decade.

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  • 2003 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 93 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Crimson color. Massively meaty nose with ripe tomato and baking spice aromas. This has a palate that incorporates a densely floral, perfumed flavor, finishing with smooth and well-integrated but supportive tannins. Surprising and superb, this is the equal of the similarly intriguing 2004 and better than the more reticent 2002. I would gratefully enjoy this for the next decade, given the chance.

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  • 2008 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° 90 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Crimson-violet color. Light, clean and persistent on both the nose and the palate. Bright, tart red fruit aromas with a slightly musty sous bois (maleza? suelo del bosque?) scent. This had the same bright elegance and long, fine tannic finish of the 2009, which I preferred. Still, charming wine with a long future ahead of it. Would gladly taste these head-to-head over the next 15+ years.

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  • 2008 Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 85 Points

    Hungary, Tokaji

    Gold color. Tangy, somewhat green nose. This had an ample palate of rich, unctuous honey. However, it finished with an off-putting residual bitterness. This may recede with time, but I'd be hesitant to revisit this again in the near future.

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Closing

Bravo! Many thanks to Señor Álvarez, Chef Sarah Grueneberg, and our gracious hosts from Hart Davis Hart and Tenzing.

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