Four x Fourrier

Black Salt
Tasted Friday, July 31, 2015 by Keith Levenberg with 358 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2012 Domaine Fourrier Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots Vieille Vigne 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru

    Always a fan of this wine in the Fourrier lineup. You'd think it should taste like Chambolle based on where it is, but it doesn't. Oddly enough the taste doesn't seem to have much kinship with the Clos Vougeot either, but it tastes remarkably similar to the Echezeaux with its gravelly minerality. It doesn't have the breadth of either grand cru but it does have a sève that none of the negociant wines really featured today, which gives it a denser inner core and a more polished veneer of sweet, ripe fruit.

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  • 2012 Jean-Marie Fourrier Clos Vougeot Vieille Vigne 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    This was the most dynamic wine of the lineup, starting out very generous and then tightening up considerably to the point where it was even a little challenging, but I'm glad I got to stay for the whole show because there really is a lot happening here. Initially poured next to the Petits Vougeot, and at that point this easily outclassed the 1er cru, as it simply had a broader reach combined with a more pliant, voluptuous form, even if it didn't quite have the seve and inner density of the Petits Vougeot. But this also had a serious spine and a streak of mintiness which started constricting this thing pretty tightly in the glass, and over the course of an hour or so it went from airy and generous to clenched up like a fist.

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 2012 Jean-Marie Fourrier Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    This was very good, but a disappointment alongside the other Fourriers tonight and in the context of what you'd expect from a Vosne-Romanee 1er cru with Fourrier's name on the label (negociant wine, admittedly). This is basically showing as an elegant and very purely fruited pinot noir, but there's no real sense of terroir here or any kind of the exotic spice character that Chaumes shows at its best.

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  • 2012 Jean-Marie Fourrier Echezeaux Vieille Vigne 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    This bottle was terrific, my favorite of the four. Intensely mineral character here, full of gravel and metal shavings with a correspondingly robust construction. The tannins are gritty without being harsh, but that's the kind of texture that feels right here. The material is broad and expansive, with all the fullness of a grand cru.

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