A private tasting

Restaurant Behrens Am Kai *, Düsseldorf, Germany
Tasted Friday, October 30, 2015 by Xavier Auerbach with 390 views

Introduction

A magnificent tasting of all 16 vintages of Clos Du Mesnil, organised by Alper Alpaslan and presided over by Richard Juhlin. Jessica Julmy attended on behalf of the house of Krug. All bottles were in excellent condition. A virtually unique experience that allowed us to discover the essence of Clos du Mesnil and enjoy it at the various stages of its life. We tasted in four flights of four vintages, from young to old. Such a privilege.

Flight 1 (16 Notes)

  • 2003 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 96 Points

    France, Champagne

    Impressive nose, ripe citrus, wonderful mineral depth but with much more nuance to come; wonderful marriage of richness, wood and piercing acidity, marries weight to elegance, lovely balance; long and vinous finish. Will age well on the strength of its extract, acidity is ample.

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  • 2000 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Vinous nose, deep and complete, seems more developed than the 2003; very rich palate, slightly candied fruit, amazing acidity, rounded and rich but incredibly energetic, oaky warmth; very long finish, orange peel, lime zest. An absolute stunner.

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  • 1998 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    Floral, hint of nuttiness on the nose, darker notes, clearly a lighter style than the 2000, hint of crème patissière, relatively evolved; harmonious and flowing palate, charming and very harmonious, lovely pure citrus flavours, chalky minerality; relatively light finish, floral, lime zest, very good length. Seems fully mature.

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  • 1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 98 Points

    France, Champagne

    Nose is quite closed initially but opens up with air, vinous, spicy and complex, starting to develop some nuttiness and toasty notes; rich and slightly candied palate, powerful and surprisingly warm, the acidity covered in rich extract; lime finish, excellent length, will develop more complexity over time. Starting to show some maturity, has decades ahead of it.

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  • 1995 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    Mature but with piercing acidity, more evolved on the nose than on the really vibrant palate, masculine, slightly rustic even, really intense and powerful, deep and almost meaty, lovely oily texture, perhaps its complexity is slightly less than in the 1996, almost salty minerality, layered finish, lime zest, really excellent length.

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  • 1992 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    Floral nose, linden, a relatively light but very elegant and charming rendition of the Clos du Mesnil theme, juicy fruit, sweet orange, a charming wine in spite of the typical searing acidity, quite fresh and youthful for age, elegant and precise, and long finish. All about balance and finesse. Fully mature, drinking wonderfully well at its second plénitude.

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  • 1990 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    Rich and vinous nose, truffle, warm but not very detailed, glowing with a warm nuttiness; the palate too is rich and vinous but harmonious, not heavy owing its ripe but firm acidity and supporting bitters; not a lot of definition on the finish but length is good. May be too big? Seems to be in transition? Not much fun today and not really my style, a bit foursquare. The vintage dominates the terroir here. Firm structure, time in hand.

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  • 1989 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Clearly the deepest colour of the wines in this flight; perhaps slightly muffled on the nose, with a hint of sherry or even white port, marzipan, beeswax, but does not seem oxidised or maderised; slightly estery on the palate, warm and rich, sweet but also a bit prickly; not really pure on the finish. Richard Juhlin assures us it is as it should be.

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  • 1988 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 100 Points

    France, Champagne

    Perfection. Perfect balance, perfect harmony, perfectly seamless, so fresh yet so complex, a perfect expression of vintage, vineyard and house style. Everything that Clos du Mesnil can be. Lives among the stars. A true vino da meditazione. Will age forever.

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  • 1986 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    Alarmingly deep colour, like a light sherry; amazing complexity on the nose, almost like an old Rheingau Spätlese, lemon and spice, honey, Firne, hint of vanilla; stunning palate, perfectly dry but so rich, piercing acidity, honeyed, spicy, incredible chalky minerality, slightly estery finish, hazelnut, vanilla, excellent length. Strange but attractive.

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  • 1985 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 99 Points

    France, Champagne

    A very complete and structured but elegant wine, some supporting bitters, deep and complex, exceptionally fresh for a 30 year old wine, harmonious and together, very complete finish, excellent length. Riper and more evolved than the 1988. A masterpiece but not as celestial.

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  • 1983 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Only slightly less deep colour. than the 1986. Cognac-like nose, deep and nutty, with lovely candied fruit and older wood, deep and rich; very dry on the palate, firm acidity, rich flavours, candied fruit, juicy but almost austerely chalky; slightly pinched on the finish.

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  • 1982 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 97 Points

    France, Champagne

    Complete, deep, rich, structured, at full maturity, hint of salty woodiness, powerful and intense but playful and layered, malt whisky flavours, again that razor-sharp acidity, very long, almost a bit leathery like a Ben Nevis 1966. Top notch.

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  • 1981 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 96 Points

    France, Champagne

    A lively and playful style even after 34 years, lovely complex tertiary aromatics, honey, intense and powerful, bright and fresh and youthful structure, juicy, subtle bitters, really intense, layered finish with excellent length. A stunning wine from an off vintage.

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  • 1980 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    A relatively light Clos du Mesnil, incredibly floral and playful at 35 years of age, white peach, white chocolate, lovely mousse, hint of malt whisky and leather, intensity without weight, surprisingly good length.

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  • 1979 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 99 Points

    France, Champagne

    This is how I imagine a perfect, fully mature Clos du Mesnil should be. Seamless, very complex, hint of malt whisky, concentrated yet elegant, subtle tertiary aromatics yet perfectly fresh, forceful yet gentle, subtle phenolics, red grapefruit, relaxed but with lovely tension, long and layered finish. Still has a lot of potential too. A dream.

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