Dinner at Bovio, La Morra

An excellent meal at Bovio accompanied by two lovely, aged Baroli from their very good list.

• 1989 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Earthy brown colour. An autumnal, detailed bouquet of dried leaves, clay, tartufi neri, dried porcini, preserved red fruits with flecks of raisin. Not at all sherried on bouquet or in the mouth. On palate, poignant and ethereal with wholly secondary and tertiary notes. Mellowed and savoury, any fruit sweetness now gone. The tannins are now fully resolved and softened. The fruit however is still very much alive with good concentration and volume. Beautifully balanced with lovely acidity. Complex and nuanced showing forest floor, earth, porcini, old red fruits, balsamico and cigar. Paired well with my duck and black truffle cannelloni and the sweeter cheeses. A wine to drink soon though.

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• 1991 Gaja Barolo Sperss

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A deeper red colour. A bouquet that became more expressive with time, showing black cherries, black plums, Asian spices, hoisin and creosote, with hints of dark rose as it opened up. Nothing tertiary on the palate, barely secondary in fact. A very impressive and enjoyable Barolo nonetheless. Serious depth, structure, power and concentration. An austere, iron core, more in the red fruit spectrum, the wine built around its superb, sparkling acidity. The tannins are there but they are very fine, sleek and seamless, not at all obtrusive. Clearly the superior of the two wines, this 1991 better than the very good 1993 Sperss from two evenings ago. The Sperss was a superb food match with my veal, balsamic and grana cheese dish. The Sperss is in its optimal drinking window now but no hurry is needed.

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