Lunch with Aldo and Renato at Trattoria Antica Torre, Barbaresco

"Today is the first full day of summer" said Aldo. Certainly the sky was a deep blue very different from the misty light blue of the more typical Piermontese summer day.

After a quick visit to Scazello, Barolo we began our (mainly) Barbaresco Monday with lunch with Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco and Renato Vacca of Cantina del Pino. Renato had brought along a box of his wines for us to drink with lunch.

I like the Trattoria, just below the tower and right opposite the Produttori entrance, very much. It's a nice humble Trattoria, making typical local dishes, like the lovely veal tajarin and roasted rabbit we enjoyed ...

Renato's wines are all about restraint and elegance and letting the terroir shine through. He tries to retain freshness in his wines, typically using larger barrels. On average, his wines see about 20% new oak for 12 months, he said.

• 2014 Cantina del Pino Barbera d'Alba

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba

  A rare Barbera from Ovello vines, that saw a 20 day maceration. Bright, dark cherries and blackberries on the nose, with a little spice. In the mouth, not a pungent Barbera. Pure, clean and vertical showing some fruit sweetness. Quite fine and elegant, reflecting the house style. Also, reflecting the 2014 vintage, a cooler fruit spectrum with good minerality. I liked this Barbera quite a lot ... Hold for a couple of years and drink in the next 10, I'd say.

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• 2012 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Again mainly Ovello fruit (some from 70 year old vines). A spicy bouquet of raspberries, red cherries and red currants. Also red fruited on palate, showing red cherries, cranberry and even strawberries. Attractive, fresh, racy acids. Again a very elegant wine, almost delicate. As Aldo said, this Barbaresco reflected the 2012 vintage character.

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• 2012 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Albesani

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Another 2012 Barbaresco, but very different aromas of bracken, earth, spices and red roses. On palate, structurally, a very different wine. Quite closed. Earthy and spicy with underbrush and tobacco leaf notes. There's plenty or weight and tannins on the back palate. This wine needs cellar time, it was improved by food. In fact, in the glass, it got tighter and tighter. Give this wine 3-5 years.

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• 2011 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Renato's flagship cuvée had the best bouquet so far. A complex nose, with lifted, floral elements, very 2011 Barbaresco. Musk, red berries and dry earth with traces of mineral. On palate, a much richer, riper wine, with succulent plums, raspberries and other red fruit and that alcohol lift (on the label 14.5%, but it may be higher). However, well balanced and quite bright. Earthy with good volume and length. Slatey minerals on the finish. I'd cellar for 5+ years, ideally 10+. Very good.

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• 2007 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  We were discussing and comparing various Produttori vintages with Aldo (see later) and got onto 2007 and comparisons with 2009 ... Aldo went back to the winery and came back with this wine ... A nose of dry brushwood, dry soil and dark cherries, showing some dried leaf evolution. Serious structure on palate but showing the warmer 2007 vintage. Fleshy and powerful with quite fine grained tannins but some tannic grip on the back. "The palate is very fresh" said Renato. "You can feel the alcohol and it has nice drinkability," noted Aldo "but it can probably age". "There were good, ripe tannins in 2007" concluded Aldo. There was less progression on palate than on the nose. Ideally I'd give the wine 2-3 more years, but probably drink it in the next 10 years.

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We headed over to Produttori for a tank tasting ...