Riesling SWAG 2018

Restaurant Vlet, Hamburg, Germany
Tasted Saturday, April 14, 2018 by m_arcon with 421 views

Introduction

Another crazy night full of wonderful bottles. I had some more wines but I can´t remember every single one. Can´t wait for next year.

Flight 1 (33 Notes)

  • 1983 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese trocken 90 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    My first Auslese trocken vom Grünhaus. Out of Mag. Super interesting nose with the typical Grünhaus herbs, smoke, a bit of bacon fat, floral notes but also a ripe component. Good acidity, but on the mid-palate quite broad and with a bit of creaminess in the finish. Missing a bit the total elegance and the extra layer a bit of sugar can deliver. Will not get any better, drink now.

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  • 1996 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett trocken 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    From Mag. A rather special wine with tons of smoke, herbal aromas, unripe stone fruit and wet stone on the nose. Lively acidity on the palate, lean and vibrant. So much smoke in the after taste. Strange but simultaneously awesome. A wine for freaks. Thx Toni for sharing.

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  • 1990 Weingut Weik Mußbacher Eselshaut Riesling Spätlese 89 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Good start. Like Dirk already said, never heard of that winery before. Out of Mag. Fully matured with ripe apricots, herbs and smoked bacon. Good length but one the edge on Auslese level for me.

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  • 1987 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    An early highlight. We had this wine at the pre-tasting of the Auction in Trier and Dirk couldn´t stop himself and bought a Mag. Hanno Zilliken told us, that he harvested the grapes for this wine very late. Some frozen berries went into the "Blend" as well which gives it a very special freshness. Perfect bottle, directly from the estates very special cellar where the wines age under conditions every wine lover dreams of. Cold smoke, peat, citrus and herbs play wonderful into each other on the nose. On the palate the acidity is on point. Racy and vibrant. On the other hand you have a certain kind of ripeness. Long and elegant on the finish. No hurry to drink here.

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  • 1983 Freiherr von Ritter'schen Riesling Schloss Groenesteyn Kiedricher Wasserrose Kabinett 87 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    I was not sure if this bottle was okay. Lots of wet cardboard on the nose. Some bitter orange jam in the mouth. Okay, but nothing more.

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  • 1999 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg 92 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Very deep and intense nose with aromas of ripe peach (I think there was a bit of botrytis at play although not much), wild flowers, citrus zest and a lot of spices. Also on the palate very intense, full bodied but not much fruit (a bit of grapefruit and citrus) and an incredible sea salt finish which I absolutely adore. On the flipside it has a bit too much heat in the back-end imo. The quality is not arguable rather the style.

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  • 1976 Graf zu Hoensbroech Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Auslese 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Spices, very ripe apricot (lots of botrytis here I guess) and a herbal component dominate the nose. Good acidity/sweetness level on the palate, still in a good shape for a wine with over forty years of age. A very good wine but it was overshadowed by lots of other bottles that night.

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  • 1990 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 94 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    A rather ripe nose with some petrol, spices, roasted nuts, wet earth and a bit of fruit. Very dry (only 1,2gr/l residual sugar), precise although this Riesling has broader shoulders, good amount of tension and very long finish. Again some earthy notes on the back end. I wouldn´t say its over the hill but good to drink now. No big potential to develop further.

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  • 2004 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    A very interesting, but not on a par flight, because my Schönleber wasn’t the best bottle. This Schäfer-Fröhlich was wonderful playful, nearly dancing in the nose and on the palate. You get some nice yellow fruit mixed with white flowers, herbs and a wet stone component. Lean and (I say it again) playful with precision and a long on the finish. Wonderful showing.

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  • 2004 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Unfortunately my bottle didn’t perform on the high level this wine should normally be. Frank Schönleber told us, that there must be something wrong with it. The nose was ripe and muted, not offering much. On the palate the wine is medium bodied with so much tension, grip and length which saves the wine a bit for me. Powerful and vibrant finish.

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  • 2004 Weingut Keller Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 97 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    This 04 sneaks in from the Keller table and I was so thankful to have the chance to taste this super rare wine although it really was only a little sip. It totally blows the other 04s out of the water. In the nose the typical pineapple note mixed with citrus zest and tons of stone and minerals. Still so fresh and without a significant sign of aging. On the palate perfectly structured with the Morstein typical power but also this extra tension and complexity which makes it a great wine. Long, long finish with precision and cut. Incredible.

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  • 2010 Weingut Keller Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    I had the chance to taste this wine twice that evening. First time from Mag. directly from the estate which was brutally young and a second (normal) bottle (thanks Christian!) which shows a bit more. Yellow ripe stone fruit, citrus zest, herbal aromas and some spices on the elegant nose. Very, very dry on the palate, the acidity is so well integrated but also vibrant (so typical for the very best 2010s) and carries the wine into the long, super fresh, stone and sea salt driven finish. Although it definitely had the Morstein power and punch, KP knew to wrap it into a very elegant way. Maybe the wine with the highest upside potential I tasted this evening. And I gladly say it again: Give the Keller wines time. They really need it. A true star in the making. 95++

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  • 1996 Georg Breuer Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling 92 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Then the Breuer firework startet with this 96 Nonnenberg out of Magnum directly from the estate cellar. Afterwards I could punch myself in the face because I didn´t give this wine enough attention. It definitely hasn´t got the last complexity and aromatic kick the best Schlossbergs from that evening delivered. More white fruit and herbal aromas on the nose. Very dry (like nearly all the Breuers which is a big plus imo) and elegant but I miss the last vibrancy and cut. Good balance and length but the Nonnenberg feels a bit round on the finish.

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  • 2001 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling 96 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    This is big time stuff. Out of a 6 Liter bottle. Of course still in a very young stage. More white than yellow fruit, wet stone, herbs. A very pure and precise nose. Super fresh, elegant with lots of tension, vibrant and lively acidity. Very dry for Riesling. There was still another layer of complexity underneath which still holds back a bit. In such big formats this wine can easily age for another two decades.

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  • 1997 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling 98 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    We had a corked bottle on our table but thanks to Christian, another one made it over. A very special wine which had everything I search for in a matured, dry Riesling. After the pure and very lean 2001 out of that big format this 97 simply delivers another layer. It has a bit more super fine fruit aromas, orange peel and herbs on the nose. Laser like acidity, the whole wine vibrates in itself, tension through the roof. Endless, elegant, mineral finish with some citrus aromas in the after taste. An absolutely INCREDIBLE example of dry German Riesling. Wow.

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  • 1990 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling 93 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Was not on the level of the 92 or the 93. Although I´m a sucker for acidity, it stands out a bit too much for me. Very pure and lean.

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  • 1992 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling 95 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    The best out of the trio 90-92-93. Very harmonious with a bit more of yellow fruit, orange oil and minerals. Light, dancing over the tongue. A little kick of spices in the finish. Wonderful balanced and no sign of tiredness.

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  • 1993 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling 94 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Nearly as good as the 92, maybe it misses the last elegance of the younger brother. Some apple notes as well here. Lively and playful. On its peak.

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  • 2008 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken "R"

    Germany, Pfalz

    Not much difference to the bottle I had some weeks ago at the "Ten years after" tasting. The nose is very weird with lots of aromas of a orange wine. This particular bottle was better on the palate. More freshness, clearer with a long finish. I´m absolutely sure that the wine isn´t in the best phase right now. Give it 5 better 10 or 15 years to fully get together. Especially the 01 we had later showed that patience is highly rewarded in case of the Auslese Rs from KR. No rating here.

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  • 2008 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    On the nose all the signs of a typical Hubacker with aromas of ripe yellow stone fruit, some pineapple and exotic fruit but also this green herbal character I already mentioned in my notes from the "Ten years after" although it wasn´t that upfront imo. Also more freshness on the palate. Intense, powerful.

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  • 2007 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Very nice to have the Frühlingsplätzchen and the Halenberg from the same vintage next to each other for a direct comparison. The Halenberg was the more harmonious, rounder wine of the two with some peach, exotic flavors but also some citric components and a touch of honey. The palate also showed round with a playful acidity and a long finish. A beautiful wine to drink but it not totally fulfilled my high expectations.

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  • 2007 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Directly from the estate cellar. Much fresher than my Halenberg 07. More green and wilder components on the nose than the Halenberg. Also some white flowers and grapefruit. On the palate with more cut, edges and a bit less sugar than it´s brother. I preferred it slightly over the Halenberg that evening. Still no hurry to drink it up if you store it properly.

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  • 2007 Weingut Keller Abts E®.de Riesling Großes Gewächs

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    From Mag. Very withdrawn nose, not much fruit only some strange aromas of rubber mixed with herbs. On the palate much better but a bit round. I can´t remember the wine exactly so no rating from me here.

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  • 2010 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    From Mag. The 2010s from KPK are one of the finest collections he has made by now and this Hubacker is no exception. This is KPK in pure form with a nose of yellow ripe fruit, a bit of pineapple, yuzu and herbs. Very fresh on the palate (no wonder under that format) with punch and a long, broad, powerful finish. Very, very good and with upside potential. 94+

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  • 1999 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling 95 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    This is a more "burgundian" style of Riesling with lots of round, creamy notes but also very clear and elegant. No sign of age. I think this isn´t the most extrovert style and therefor it was a bit overshadowed by the rest of the firework. I would love to try this wine again and give it the time it really needs. A unique one.

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  • 1992 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt 93 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Very clear and fresh in style. Not the often complained big and bold Wachau style. Elegant and precise on the palate. Very, very good.

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  • 2001 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken "R" 96 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    The wine came over to our table and Markus immediately went crazy about this Koehler-Ruprecht Auslese R and I could only agree. The only R, except the ones before 1996 I never had. Nearly no fruit, only stone, herbs, iodine sea water and crushed stones. Vibrant acidity, tension through the roof and a razor-sharp precision. This is everything the best Auslese R from KR can deliver and still has potential for the long run. Great showing!

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  • 1983 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 93 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    We had this wine twice that evening. While my own bottle was slightly corked, the other bottle from the Keller table was in a very good shape. Typical for Prüm GK the nose showed more ripe notes but not in a very direct way. In fact besides all the honey and ripe apricot, this 83 was quite elegant and fine. Good balance on the palate with a long and elegant finish. I maybe miss the last kick and freshness but a very good showing.

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  • 1976 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    For my personal taste even better than the 83 GK. More playful fruit and freshness on the wonderful elegant palate. Incredible lively acidity and totally in balance. A wonderful wine.

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  • 1997 Weingut Keller Riesling Auslese 91 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Dirk put it perfectly in his note. Nothing to add here from me. A ripe but still fresh Auslese from KPKs early days.

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  • 1996 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese 91 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Lots of pumpernickel, roasted nuts, caramel on the nose. Nice body but I miss the depth of a great BA. Good but nothing more.

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  • 1976 Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ***** 96 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    A truly wonderful Auslese and finally a wine from Christoffel Jr. which totally convinced Dirk. Fine fruit of greengage, tangerine, smoke, earth and a tons of herbs. Very complex, fresh and harmonious. Lovely.

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  • 1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Oh Grünhaus, my lovely Grünhaus. This Herrenberg Spätlese from a imo perfect bottle showed everything you want from those wines. Even a bit more precise and elegant on the palate than the Abtsberg Spätlese from the same vintage we had recently. Lucky to see that my whole table really liked it.

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