MNB: Champagne Calibration

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Tasted Monday, July 30, 2018 by RajivAyyangar with 236 views

Flight 1 (5 Notes)

  • 2013 Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Les Parcelles 92 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (non-blind - my wine)
    Medium straw with some gold - vibrant color. Appetizing nose of iced pear and pastry dough - slightly toasted pastry dough. This shows modest lees that are well-integrated with fruit aromas, even though it's been 4 years before disgorgement. There are also fresh citrus notes - iced orange, tangerine, Meyer lemon.
    This is fantastic. Tangerine curd, high acid, well-integrated almost orange creme on the palate, slight hint of rain and wet leaves, ripe dried citrus, fresh yellow apple pastry. I know it's low dosage but it seems like a well-integrated 7g (I guess the fruit was a bit riper). Still the acid is properly high.

    Long finish of meyer lemon, yellow apple, pastry crust, and hint of dried leaves.

    70 pinot 30 chard
    4 years

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  • NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 91 Points

    France, Champagne

    (blind)
    Medium straw - more youthful color than the Paillard (less age?).
    Notable struck match reduction - not unpleasant.
    Explosive medium-fine mousse, notable toasted brioche, sweet palate and finish - maybe 9g Dosage.
    I think this is a more heavy-handed style - delicious but in a toasty, briochey, sweet way.

    Guess:
    70 chardonnay, 30% pinot.
    NV blend - good quality.
    3 years on lees. This is an autolysis-driven style compared to the Paillard. I think it took at least 3 years to get this level of impact.

    Overall: well-integrated and well-made with good acid, but a bit toasty and sweet for my taste.

    Actual: Charles hiedsieck brut reserve

    11g dosage
    6-7 yrs on lees
    30-40 chard
    30-40 pinot
    20-25 meunier
    $50-60 retail

    bottled 2009, disgorged 2016

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  • NV Soutiran Champagne Grand Cru Signature Brut 87 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (blind)
    Medium straw color.
    Funky nose - quite yeasty - almost like peptone extract. Has nice yellow apple underneath. Fruit is more reticent - maybe more Pinot / Meunier.
    Medium sweetness - I'd guess 7g. Fruit isn't as ripe as either the Paillard or the Heidsieck, so maybe a lower quality NV. Explosive mousse with medium-fine bubbles. High-minus acid - not as piercing as the others. Overall these grapes weren't as ripe, and the finish is a bit shorter than the others.

    I'm guessing a good quality grower brut ~$50. BdN. 3 years on lees.

    Soutiran Grand Cru signature
    5.8 g Dosage
    40 pinot 60 chard
    2-3y
    $50

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  • NV Champagne Le Mesnil Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 86 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (blind)

    Pale straw color.
    Low intensity aromatics, slightly reductive, very faint autolysis - light brioche. Some attractive underripe green Granny Smith apple.
    11g dosage - pretty sweet. No fruit ripeness. High acid - awkward and malic-dominant at the finish. Low autolytic impact. Short finish.
    Chardonnay (more because it seems characterless and lower-priced than any real fruit traits).
    12 months on lees.
    $40 NV from a big house. Reductive style.

    Actually: Mesnil Brut NV
    $45
    Blanc de Blanc
    9g dosage - a bit lower than I thought but still at the high end.
    2.5 yrs on lees - I'm surprised - I didn't pick it up.

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  • NV A. R. Lenoble Champagne Brut Intense 87 Points

    France, Champagne

    (blind)
    Pale straw.
    Slight nose - light brioche with light yellow apple. Not much fruit complexity.
    This is classic Brut champagne. Yellow-fruit dominant - 70-30 Chardonnay-pinot. 7g dosage and holding it well. 2 years on lees. Medium fine mousse. Big House style. Entry level NV - $40.

    25 chard
    30 pinot
    45 pinot neunier
    4g dosage
    3 years lees

    AR lenoble intense Brut
    $34 - good value. But a bit lean.

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