A Diverse Night of Italian Wines

The evening's organizer requested whites from the mountainous north, and reds not from Piemonte. The reds were served blind.

• 2016 i Clivi Friulano San Pietro 92 Points

  Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali

  I found this wine to be a bit ungiving in terms of aromatics, but on the palate, it was a joy to drink. Concentrated, textured and generous, with notes of almonds, herbs and lemon oil.

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• 2015 i Clivi Brazan 90 Points

  Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio Goriziano

  Floral, enticing nose, but the taste didn't live up to those aromatics for me. Good typicity, with dense almond and honey notes along with some yeasty, textured elements. Came off as a bit simple and restrained.

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• 2014 Laghibellina Gavi Mainin 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Gavi

  A pleasure to drink this floral beauty, with loads, of concentrated citrus and saline flavors, exhibiting tension and lift to great effect.

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• 2016 San Michele Appiano (St. Michael-Eppan) Weissburgunder Alto Adige - Südtirol Schulthauser 92 Points

  Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol

  An outstanding, crisp mountain white, with apple, peach and floral notes intermeshing beautifully. A great QPR.

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• 2010 Jermann Vintage Tunina Venezia Giulia IGT 93 Points

  Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

  Bottle age has paid off handsomely, with this exceeding my prior two samplings dramatically. A viscous, glycerined wine showing great complexity and depth of flavor. Floral nose. Notes of honeyed stone fruit and wax, with a rich mouthfeel and long finish.

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• 2009 Donnafugata Sicilia Tancredi 89 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

  Served blind. A vexing wine to place, as the oak-dominated nose seemed so out of place for Italy. Ripe plum and cherries, spice and chocolate, with a firm acid backbone. I was surprised to see the producer as I would have expected more typicity.

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• 2013 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Cielo d'Ulisse 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Served blind. So young and closed down, I couldn't identify the grape variety. Forest floor, cherry and muted tobacco, with good lift. Needs 5 years!

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• 2009 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Easily our WOTN, and finally blossoming into prime drinking form! Showing great purity and class, high-toned and energetic, with layers of bright red fruit, mint and spices. Expansive, exuberant finish. Ready for business, but should last 15+ years.

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• 2014 Arianna Occhipinti Cerasuolo di Vittoria Grotte Alte 92 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria

  Served blind. My first encounter with this intriguing blend. I liked its power, though lighter bodied than that would suggest. A nice thread of salinity paired well with the tart red fruit and spice array. Should improve with a few more years of age.

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• 2008 Cantina Terlan Lagrein Porphyr 92 Points

  Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol

  A great showing for this decade-old beauty. Complex, full-bodied and concentrated (some considered it reduced, when served blind to them). Notes of licorice, roasted meats, black fruit and stones. A wine that is both earthy and elegant. Well done!

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One of the perils of a tasting like this is how to organize wines brought by multiple parties, in some cases blind. This worked well for the whites, but we got the order of the reds wrong, oh well. The evening was nonetheless thoroughly enjoyed: educational, humbling and delicious.