PK-huset
Tasted Saturday, February 22, 2020 by Omar Khayyam with 310 views
The theme was Burgundy against the rest of the world. Mid way through the tasting we learned that four of the wines were from Burgundy.
Groffier, Bruno Clair and Littorai stood out. The other wines were still good but not as fantastic as the best trio. None of these wines are at the very light and perfumed expression of pinot, and there is some stems used in the pyramid valley and Williams selyem. going against CdN Gevrey wine from producers that go for more dark fruit expression like Bruno Clair was also clever. The end points were easy (Pyramid Valley, Williams Selyem and Groffier) but Bruno Clair, Littorai and Knipser felt like they could be both from Burgundy and beyond.
All four wines were lovely. The Littorai was more sharp and racy while the Montrachet was over the top generous and inviting. Two different faces of chardonnay that I love just as much. tied for second was the Cullen chardonnay and the Bouchard Perrieres - both really great wines as well. The Cullen wine is a steal. The game was obvious afterwards: a Burgundy producer that uses plenty of new oak and two chardonnay producers from elsewhere that aims for a very classic, less oaky, Burgundian style. Bravo, Johan. Point well made.
On the reds it was a clear divide between the top three (Groffier, Bruno Clair and Littorai) versus Pyramid Valley, Knipser and Williams Selyem, who just could not compete with the top three.
On the guessing game:
Pyramid Valley was certainly not Burgundy. I guessed Germany.
Knipser I thought could be a very oaked Burgundy.
Littorai The Haven I have tried before and I actually prefer the Pivot, the short finish and the smoothness had me back and forth between a better Oregon wine and a Burgundy.
Bruno Clair made me guess new world just because of warmer darker fruit profile and some cola.
Groffier I initially guessed Littorai, but as it developed during the evening I changed my guess to a better Vosne Romanée (Romanée St Vivant perhaps)
Kevin John I first thought was clearly French by sniffing the wine, but on tasting it I guessed NZ or South Africa.
Bouchard Perrieres (Meursault) I guessed a Leflaive 1er cru Puligny first, but as the temperature rose and the fat body shoed more and more, I changed my guess to Napa.
The Littorai Thieriot I had very good Burgundy of the highest pedigree. I thought about the racy acidic core and also contemplated Luke Lambert or Farr Vintners but it was so good I thought it came from an even finer source.
The Montrachet was lovely and was tied with the Bruno Clair for third WOTN for me.
2016 Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir Earth Smoke
New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury, Waipara
Somewhat brown edges, looks older than it is. Quite transparent. Overripe strawberries, somewhat sweet, spicy and not balanced. Wild. This was my least favorite wine of the tasting and it was still very interesting and absolutely drinkable, just slightly odd compared to the rest of the line up.
Not really recommended, given the price tag.
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2014 Knipser Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs
Germany, Pfalz
Lightly colored with a with deep warm red color. At first it felt quite reductive and a little off-putting; a little damp root cellar feel to it. Then there is some sweet pinot berries and oak. A little alcohol at the end. It does a good battle and is very charming but could not come up to the level of the other pinots in the tasting. Good stuff for the sweet tooth pinot lover. Recommended.
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2016 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Lighter in color and style compared to the first two. There is some mocha on the nose, strawberries and also darker berries on the palate but cool and lean and very fine. Recommended.
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2017 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
This was a very complex and perhaps not yet fully integrated pinot but singing at a high level already. Some herbal notes but also cola, lots of pinosity, dark berries and forest floor. A little grip at the end, but elegant and cool. Lovely and highly recommended.
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2017 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Darker color, and it has that perfect complexity that is so integrated that you have a hard time picking out individual flavors or aromas. Very luxurious and silky but with darker fruit profile and lots and lots of structure from the acidity that keeps the wine on the straight and narrow for a very long time. Highly recommended. WOTN for me.
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2016 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Purple edges on the color tells us this is a young wine. It has darker and more intense color than the other pinots tried at the same time. A distinct note of tulip stems bothers me a bit but you can tell this will be something of interest in ten years time. Also some chocolate and sweetness. Warm dark fruit soft on the palate. Definitely a more modern producer but not really worth the price.
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