Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner tasting at Schloss Gobelsburg, Austria, organized by Weinakademie Österreich. Michael Mossbrugger of Schloss Gobelsburg, Willi Bründlmayer, Markus Huber and Weingut Prager each presented a flight of three of their Grüner Veltliners.

• 2020 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Domæne Gobelsburg Kamptal 88 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 1, Wine 1: All in stainless steel. Light yellow gold. Elderflower, stone fruit, pear, fresh citrus, and tangerine. Light-bodied, with fresh acidity, and average to good length. Good. Think of it as an aperitif or pair it with white fish.

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• 2020 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Domæne Gobelsburg Langenlois 89 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 1, Wine 2: Partly in stainless steel, partly in large casks. Light to medium yellow gold. Citrus, young stone fruit, pear, a hint of bell pepper, light earth and white pepper spice. Medium-bodied, with good, fresh acidity, and good length.

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• 2019 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Ried Lamm 90 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 1, Wine 3: All in large casks. Light to medium yellow gold. Ripe yellow fruit, ripe apple, ripe citrus, lactic notes, light earth, and white pepper spice, with good acidity, and very good length. Good body and concentration, and a smooth, buttery texture.

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• 2017 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Ried Loiserberg

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 2, Wine 1: From a late-ripening vineyard, harvest on average is eight days later than for, e.g., the Lamm. Light to medium yellowish golden colour. Lightly reductive nose. Citrus, apple, pear, light earth, light white pepper, and a weird, unexpected anise aspect. The wine has high acidity and is fairly long, but the components are not in harmony yet. Aeration might have helped. Needs time! (NR)

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• 2017 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Reserve Käferberg

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 2, Wine 2: Medium yellowish golden colour. Slightly reduced nose. Citrus, stone fruit, apple, light earth, and white pepper, with high, fresh acidity, and very good length. Medium-bodied. Very salty. Needs time! (NR)

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• 2017 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Reserve Lamm Kamptal 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  Flight 2, Wine 3: From a, earlier ripening vineyard, harvest on average is eight days earlier than for, e.g., the Loiserberg. Slightly reduced nose. Medium yellow gold. Stone fruit, ripe citrus, honey, light earth, and white pepper, with high, fresh acidity, and superb length. Very, very salty! Good body and concentration. The most accessible of Bründlymayer's 2017 GVs (not surprising since it is from the warmest site). Still, I would give it more time, it should age well.

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• 2020 Prager Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg 90 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Flight 3, Wine 1: Light, pale yellow colour. Citrus, stone fruit, green apple, light vegetal notes, light earth, and white pepper, with fresh acidity, and good length of the earthy & white pepper-driven finish. Really great acidity! Medium- to light-bodied, lightly salty, and very fresh. It takes some effort to make friends with the wine, but once you do it becomes a very refreshing relationship!

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• 2020 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Flight 3, Wine 2: Bright light to medium yellow gold. Citrus, stone fruit, light earth, lactic notes, mineral notes, and white pepper spice, with good acidity and superb length. Medium to full, with good balance and concentration. Very persistent.

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• 2020 Prager Grüner Veltliner Stockkultur Smaragd Achleiten 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Flight 3, Wine 3: Light to medium yellow gold. Ripe citrus, stone fruit, pear, mineral notes, and intense white pepper spice, with good acidity and superb length. Very mineral. Intriguing light earth + white pepper spice lingering on the palate. Ripe and broad but backed by good acidity. I would love to try the wine again in ten years.

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• 2020 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Reserve Alte Setzen 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Traisental

  Flight 4, Wine 1: 2020 is regarded as a classic year, with normal weather patterns, and a relaxed harvest. Aged in large casks on the lees for about 10 months. Only bottled about two weeks ago. Light lemon colour. Floral notes, citrus, green apple, bell pepper, light earth, and light white pepper spice. Very salty. Medium- to light-bodied, balanced and long.

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• 2017 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Reserve Zwirch 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Traisental

  Flight 4, Wine 2: 2017 is regarded as a warm but not too hot year. The Alte Setzen is a warmer site. Some botrytised grapes. Aged in large casks on the lees for about 10 months. Light lemon colour. Stone fruit, citrus, light orange marmalade, a hint of honey, and spice, with a buttery texture and very good length. Light botrytis character. Round, smooth and long. Broad and easy to like. Drinks well!

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• 2015 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Reserve Berg 90 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Traisental

  Flight 4, Wine 3: 2015 is regarded as a warm but not too hot year. Mineral red limestone soil. Some botrytised grapes. Aged in large casks on the lees for about 10 months. Medium yellow gold. Ripe citrus, ripe yellow fruit, orange marmalade, honey, and spice. Medium- to full, with good concentration. Plenty of acidity on the finish. Shows some botrytis character. Very interesting combination of ripe fruit on the front and through the middle, and refreshing acidity on the finish. 90+

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Another well-organized tasting with great producers in a beautiful setting. Thank you Weinakademie Österreich! Very high quality across the board. It was very interesting to taste Schloss Gobelsburg's 2020 GV from the regional wine to the village-level wine to the single vineyard wine side-by-side, which made it easy to recognize the increasing complexity and typicity from one level to the next. Bründlmayer's wines need more time but are likely to turn out to be superb. Prager's wines were rock-solid, their length stood out. Markus Huber's wines were a big surprise to me - the winery has not been on my radar, but the wines not only were outstanding in quality but also very drinkable. An impressive lineup!