Jasper on Terroir : Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru
67 Pall Mall TV
Tasted Thursday, September 2, 2021 by NickA with 50 views
Introduction
Most of the Morey 1ers are very small, hindering their individual reputation. Tackled roughly from north to south on this occasion.
Flight 1 (6 Notes)
Closing
I have always had a soft spot for Morey, and certainly had no complaints with these wines.
2010 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
From the lieu dit owned by Domaine Ponsot, including CDLR GC, 1er and village. The white is made with Aligote grown on 1er cru land, planted 1911.
Slightly cheesy nose - in a delicious way! Fresh, savoury, nutty, beeswax. Actually seemed to get fruitier (lemons, mostly) with air. Long, clean and rather exciting.
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2017 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Just above CDLR and CSD, to the south of Monts Luisants. Chaffot = small hay barn. Hard limestone soil.
Lots of black fruit, and some violets, on the rather suave nose. Rose petal and redder fruit coming through. Again dark on the palate, well ripened and extracted for a 2017 but far from overdone. Really fills the mouth, and extremely long. Finish is fresher, almost tart, but also earthy. Decent amount of tannin remains. Structured, with loads of potential. Quite superb.
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2015 Domaine Stephane Magnien Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
"Falcon", a very reliable 1er cru below CSD.
A very ripe, fleshy nose, though with spice, red fruit and a hint of tertiary development beginning. Again quite spicy on the palate, tart and tinged with red cherry. Dances lightly but has plenty of concentration. Particularly spicy on the finish, plenty of stuffing to age. Filled out and became joyous with more air.
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2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru La Riotte 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
A couple of vineyards south of Faconnieres, downslope from Lambrays.
Paler colour. What a seductive nose! All floral, and swathed in silk. Fizzy strawberry, without being unduly sweet. The palate is similarly movie-star handsome, sleek, smooth yet full of attractive sweet fruit. Distinctive and irresistible.
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2017 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
At the southern end of the village.
Rich, dark purple. Well-integrated nose, with dark fruit, earth and Asian spice, then more floral with air. Almost like a Nebbiolo! Plenty of power and substance on the palate, though with smooth tannins. Then some stemminess showed itself - sauvage, like many of the best Morey wines.
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2014 Domaine Arlaud Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Very old vines. Below Clos de Tart at the southern end of the village, well protected from the wind as though it were itself a clos. A very proper expression of Morey, though it is unique in having a high iron content in its soil.
A really airy, elegant nose, with some red fruit and a mealy quality. Somewhat ungenerous on the palate (perhaps suffering vs the 15s and 17s just enjoyed). Probably needs food.
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