Outstanding wines with a couple of last bottles!

Sardine tart with pickled red onions

Balsamic-glazed portobello mushrooms with fresh herbs

Steamed blue cod with favas and fennel

Braised beef cheeks, red cabbage, celeriac puree

Persimmon tarte tatin with fresh raspberries

• NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Palo Cortado 102 "florpower mmx" 96 Points

  Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

  Absolutely stunning Palo Cortado, that shows no heat from the spirit, and presents as a caramel - infused wine of impeccable balance, with the satiny texture a particularly extraordinary aspect of the wine. So long, so refined, easily the best Palo Cortado I have drunk.

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• 2016 Hanzell Chardonnay 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

  Even at the age of 6, this wine is still a baby, which promises great potential for upside development. Tight, but refined in texture, there are pronounced beeswax and honeysuckle notes to the nose and palate which is unusual. The wine itself has a similar structure to Kumeu River wines, in terms of its reliance on fruit quality and the firm acid structure, but the nature of the fruit quality is certainly more tropical in nature. Served too cold at first, the wine became fully expressive as it warmed up and opened to the air. It has all the makings of a wine that will transform into something quite nice over the next 10 years...

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• 2002 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Great Chablis at its peak of development. Even at the age of 20, the wine presents visually as a youngster - light straw colour that seemed no older that a 2016 Hanzell Chardonnay drunk just before. As fine as the Hanzell was, the Raveneau was simply in another class - the intensity levels are fabulous, and age has brought a subtle butterscotch note to all of the green fruit, flint, and mineral aspects to the wine. Extremely complex and long, there appears to be no hurry on bottle of this, but it's hard to imagine this improving further!

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• 1994 Harlan Estate 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Extraordinary nose with superb fruit quality, extreme ripeness, exotic spice, and dark chocolate. While there is volatile acidity, it is only a tiny part of the experience (unlike many later vintages). This results in a dense, involving and forthcoming bouquet that speaks of its Oakville (hills) terroir - one taster going so far to say To-Kalon fruit quality, a vineyard that is contiguous with Harlan Estate. But it also speaks of the winery's unique style. Classic California cult in style, but none the worse for it. In the mouth, huge, structured with big tannins, superlative fruit quality that is so ripe and rich. As complex as the two Bordeaux drunk beside it (or more so), it is a very different style. Harlan in no way resembles the wines of the Medoc, so much as it does the gargantuan proportions of right bank "Garagiste" wines. The finish of the wine is out of sight - and the longets of the three great wines at the table - it lasted well over a minute in the mouth...The wine is drinking well, and one could wish that further age might moderate the more extreme aspects of the wine, bringing to it a more-refined balance (a la the 1982 Mouton Rothschild drunk beside it especially!), but as a drink, this is profound, and best enjoyed with a rare grilled steak (over vine cuttings, thank you!) presented simply at the table. My gut tells me this will age, and develop, but is unlikely to transform into the kind of subtle and refined style that great Bordeaux is known for.

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• 1990 Château Léoville Las Cases 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Classic Medoc with vibrant graphite notes, currants, and beautiful elevage. Drunk between a Harlan Estate 1994, and the Mouton Rothschild 1982, this wine possibly suffered from being less intense than the former, and not as refined as the latter! However, the LLC was the best wine with the dish of braised beef cheeks with a celeriac puree - its lean, iron-ore note and dimension cut through the richness of the dish in a way that elevated both the wine and the dish. The Harlan came across as too much of a good thing, while the MR felt too subtle . While I have had better bottles of this very great wine, this bottle still impressed with its firmness, its intensity, and its balance. The iron-ore notes to the palate are for me, a classic LLC note - they are wines of great distinction. Bottle in this condition are ready to go.

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• 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  While not the most "perfect" bottle of this wine that I have had the privilege to drink, it still came across as the archetypal Paulillac. The refinement of the wine is unmatched in my experience of Bordeaux, and I mark the wine down a couple of points only because the finish of this particular bottle is starting to hint at drying. Drunk next to the Leoville Las Cases 1990, this was similar in intent, but far more refined, while drunk next to the Harlan Estate 1994, this was simply from a different planet - one with less exoticism of fruit expression, but again a wine that simply shows its class through its balance - of flavour, aroma, structure, and texture. Some wines (like the Harlan) rely on being bigger, or riper, or more "handled" to make an impression, while Mouton 1982 simply plays its game - it is likely the benchmark wine of the 1982 vintage in the Medoc. Sometimes just being the best is all one has to do to impress...

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• 2011 Château Climens 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Classic Barsac - Refined texture, beautiful sweetness , balanced by perfectly-judged acidity. Creme caramel, ripe mango, citrus peel, and lovely vanilla notes combine to an integrated and extended finish. Drinking especially well tonight. 94++

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