Carignan and on and on

Piccolino
Tasted Thursday, July 14, 2022 by NickA with 89 views

Introduction

A 100% Carignan tasting? With a DJ playing in the background? Why has this never been thought of before?!

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 Note)

  • NV Lancelot-Pienne Champagne Tradition Brut 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Disgorged 06/21 and ready to enjoy already, perhaps because of the high % of Meunier. Rich nose, with digestive biscuit, dried fruit and tobacco, and deep and rich on the palate too without being at all cloying; the dried fruit and balsamic notes were nicely offset by some tart green apple and pops of spicy ginger. One of the best entry-level Champagnes I've had in a while.

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Flight 2 - Carignlebanon (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Chateau Musar Carignan 92 Points

    Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

    Very tertiary and Bretty (not sure where one stopped and the other started): leather, game, even poo! Still plenty of tannin, but that was wrapped in sweet red fruit. A soft and seductive wine, and a privilege to taste, but not for the faint-hearted given the nose.

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  • 2018 Domaine des Tourelles Carignan Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

    Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

    This was definitely outmatched on paper by the 1989 Musar we had alongside, but in practice it gave very little away and was quite lovely. A really pretty nose, ripe and floral and not overly sweet. More sweet fruit on the palate, roses, so deep it was even beetrooty... but in a good way!

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Flight 3 - Priorat (2 Notes)

  • 2011 Ferrer Bobet Priorat Selecció Especial Vinyes Velles 89 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    A big wine, with some oak and lots of fruit on the nose, like a modernist Barolo. Brooding on the palate, notes of burnt meat, long finish. I found this a bit too much of a mouthful, and it was outclassed by its flightmate. It was also less enjoyable than when I first had it 18 months ago, when (in a different context) it came across as more impressive.

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  • 2010 Portal del Priorat Priorat Tros de Clos 92 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    Bright, fresh strawberry on the nose, and some aniseed. Grippy and tannic, lots of pure fruit, the dark bitter taste of cocoa, deep and sensual and somewhat raw. Just what I'd want from a Carignan, and still potential to improve.

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Flight 4 - Catalunya Francesca (3 Notes)

  • 2012 Domaine Treloar Côtes du Roussillon Le Maudit 90 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon

    Quite lean (especially following the Priorats), with a powdery sensation to the nose and some game coming through. Dusky and chalky on the palate, violets and dark plummy fruit. I didn't agree with the claims of TCA, but I do think this probably needed drinking up.

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  • 2016 Domaine Treloar Le Rescapé 91 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes

    Plummy yet delicate, with hidden depths and even something marine to the nose. Unusual on the palate too: grippy yet sensual, and fruit reminiscent of bubblegum (from the carbonic maceration?), somehow without that being at all unpleasant. Juicy and drinkable.

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  • 2018 Danjou-Banessy Côtes Catalanes Les Myrs 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes

    This was a complete outlier, in the context of tonight's line-up, Carignan generally, perhaps even out of all the wines I've drunk - but very successful with it. An incredible pale colour, such that it looked infused rather than extracted. So pretty and, indeed, sleek and racy on the nose, which reminded me of peach ice tea done just right. Very complex and elegant on the palate: exotic soap, blackcurrant, violets, pink grapefruit, orange peel. Silky smooth but with a crisp bite too, the whole package effortlessly seasoned with an air of mystery.

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Flight 5 - Sardigna (2 Notes)

Flight 6 - Calignan (2 Notes)

  • 2018 Ridge Carignane Buchignani Ranch 91 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County

    Reliable Ridge do it again. Very aromatic, deep, satisfying nose, with rose petal, smoke and mineral notes. Thickish with rich dark purple fruit, but not out of balance. Not, however, as exciting as the other Californian Carignan we had tonight.

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  • 2018 Michael Klouda Wines Carignane 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi

    The last wine of the night, and one of the best. Super pure bright red fruit on the nose, like free-run strawberry juice with hints of flowers. Spicier on the palate, a bit of wildness and grip, long, pure and gorgeous - yum.

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Closing

Interesting tasting... left me wishing some of the wines hadn't been attempts to make Carignan into some sort of Super Tuscan, which the grape's slightly rustic, grippy, perfumed qualities don't really suit. Carignan seems a bit like Syrah's slightly less cool and successful younger brother - capable of good things, but I don't think it's going to win a spot at the top table.

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