Burgundy villages

Burgundy village theme that had more disappointing bottles than those that punched above their weight, perhaps the 2018s and 19s need more time to settle down.

• 2013 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Quite lean and tensile, lots of citrus fruit that I felt wasn’t as delineated as it would have been in a better vintage. Correctly identified as a Puligny at around 10 years, drinking well now.

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• 2015 Buisson-Charles Meursault Vignes de 1945 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Tropical and ripe fruits, had an off-putting apple cider, spritzy note. Guessed this as a 2016 Meursault.

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• 2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Brought this for a friend. Last vintage before Caroline took over I believe. Made in an old-school style with rounder fruit and lower acid that made people think this was from a warm vintage. Some pear and spice notes. Most managed to identify this as a Chassagne, definitely a relic which wasn't to everyone's taste.

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• 2017 Domaine François Mikulski Saint-Aubin Blanc 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin

  Served at the end, thought this was much older than it actually was. Some advanced notes of honey and caramel, more than a hint of sweetness on the finish.

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• 2018 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  The first of many deeply unimpressive 18/19s unfortunately. Candied and jammy red fruit, distracting cherry cola note, alcohol was very prominent on the finish.

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• 2009 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  My extra bottle that turned out to be the one I liked the best. Very pretty and elegant nose, the high acid led most to guess a cooler vintage. Most also managed to guess that this was a Volnay. Very good and showed that Bouley has been setting very a high bar for a long time. Drink up before the acid subsumes the fruit. Perhaps the 18 will turn into something like this?

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• 2013 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Showed similarities to the 2012 but with higher acid. I actually liked it a lot on pop and pour when it was more classic and palatable, but with air it became strangely more candied. Guessed 2012 NSG because of the earthiness and rusticity.

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• 2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  A more muscular and tannic wine than the 2013. Rich black, plummy fruit that seemed to have mellowed from its youth. Think I guessed NSG for this too.

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• 2019 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 86 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  The most overtly jammy wine in the line-up, think everyone was shocked that this turned out to be a Hudelot-Noellat. Blue and purple candied fruit, so dense that some guessed Syrah. Was thinking of a producer that didn't manage 2018 so well like Bertheau so was similarly surprised when this was revealed.

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• 2018 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  My contribution. Wasn't as jammy as the other 18/19s but more than a hint of warmth in the fruit and an alcoholic note on the finish. Very blue-fruited, think I prefer his 2017/16s by a large margin.

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• 2017 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Dark fruit with some muddled earthiness that made others think Gevrey but the floral nose and elegance made me guess 14 Chambolle as it was clearly from a relatively cooler year.

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• 2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  Pretty, spicy red fruit on the nose, palate was a little candied and anonymous.

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• 2002 Domaine Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Probably the standout of the line-up because of the complexity that age brings. Quite old-school wine making, perhaps a little heavy-handed in its youth but age has seen the wine mellow. Guessed Gevrey 99 or 02.

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• 2013 Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Alte Reben 91 Points

  Germany, Baden

  Inserted as a ringer, no one figured that it wasn't a Burgundy. On a spectrum this was probably one of the most classic in the line-up, very pretty sweet red fruit and a silky and elegant palate. Much better than the Furst and less heavy-handed than the Molitor I tried a few months ago.

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• 2016 Gerhard Markowitsch Pinot Noir Ried Scheibner 88 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum

  Small leftover sample. Quite earthy but with a candied nose so I thought old-world but not French, apparently most people at the dinner guessed German too. A little greenness that was distracting.

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