Fix, St James, Sydney
Tasted Wednesday, August 3, 2022 by graemeg with 95 views
Thanks to the generosity of Gordon, Geoffrey and Glenn, we drank four Yarra Yering verticals of recent vintages this month. Founded by scientist Dr Bailey Carrodus in 1969, the business was sold intact after his death in 2008. Some things are unchanged; the high prices, the ‘don’t-give-a-rats,-designed-by-the-work-experience-kid’ label, the quirkily cryptic names. But the range has expanded enormously compared to the half-dozen bottling that Carrodus regularly offered.
One of the indulgences of Dr C was the authentic all-Portugese variety fortified ‘Potsorts’ (nee Portsorts), the last of which was made in the 2010 vintage. Clearly not considered viable with his passing, it’s been dumped and rather than rip out the vines, the grapes have presumably been steered into this table wine. Touriga nacional, Tinta cao, Tinta roriz, Tinta amarela, Alvarelhao, Sousao. Foot-trodden in a single fermenter, apparently. Hard to see the value in this at $100 though.
From a single 8 eight-acre block at the Western end of the property. I recall a long-standing legal issue with the naming of this wine – for many years the Yarra Yering name didn’t appear on the bottle, just ‘Underhill’ beneath the double-Y symbol. I found this the most disappointing bracket on the night; the wines thin and verging on unripe, without depth or much interest.
Was always a blend of at least shiraz and viognier, long before it became fashionable, but these days seems to contain Mataro and Marsanne as well.
At this point I was still hoping for something wonderful – it’s a been a terrific wine over the years – but although this flight was a step up it was disappointingly consistent with the previous ones. Especially for a wine they want $150 for…
Interesting night, although it seemed that Rotters were rather underwhelmed, on average. I certainly was! I can’t help thinking that the introduction of the ‘Carrodus’ white-on-black-label luxury cuvees (at eye-watering prices) over the last decade has robbed the standard wines of their best fruit, and it rather shows. Certainly, there are no bargains here. Seems to be a great many bottlings of lots of different wines from multiple vintages available on the website too, so others might be thinking the same thing…
NV Albert Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
{diam, 12%} [Stephen] Lovely, developing nose of yeasty aromas and pure melon fruit with a honey tinge. The palate is dry, medium/full bodied, with ripe fruit and biscuit-like flavours. A hint of nutty interest too, freshly sour finish. Medium-sized creamily aggressive bubbles that settle with a bit of air. Medium length finish. Good stuff.
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2019 Yarra Yering Dry Red N°3
Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
{screwcap, 12.5%} Floral nose. Roses with little oak. The most tobacco-like of the three in aroma. Light/medium in weight. Cherry flavours, slightly dusty palate, low/medium powdery tannins, but also fairly low in acid. Short/medium finish. Easy drinker of no great distinction.
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2018 Yarra Yering Dry Red N°3
Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
{screwcap, 13%} Floral and fragrant with a cranberry twist. Deep cherry and blackberry flavours with an exotic spicy note. Way better than the 2019. Medium weight, medium tannins but still only subtle oak. Crunchy, savoury medium/long finish. Cleanest and most impressive of the “No 3” wines tasted.
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2017 Yarra Yering Dry Red N°3
Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
{screwcap, 13%} The darkest-hued of the noses, if you like, with a blackberry aspect, but also the least intense. The medium-bodied palate turns out to be the leanest of the three, despite a hint of blueberry fruit, with low acid, medium powdery tannins and shorter, muted sort of finish. A bit dull, in my view.
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