Terroir-istes International - France, Burgundy, Chablis GC Les Clos + Party wines

A focus on arguably the top Grand Cru of Chablis, Les Clos

• 2008 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light to mid-lemon in colour the floral aromas are wet limestone, oyster shell, lemon zest, lime blossom and mineral.
  The entry continues floral with a fine, elegant ballerina gait, nervy, fresh acidity and poise. This combines that tightly wound acidity and smashed rocks texture with richer white peach, ripe apple (almost red apple) and lime slices. A green edge to the wine with a dusty to chalky note and cooling, almost herbal feel makes the wine intriguing. Long finish

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• 2008 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light yellow with a nervy aromatic of minerals, crushed rocks and chalk.
  An energetic entry, the wine is intense and rich yet has a fine cut of brisk acidity, giving line and length. Flavours of ripe apple, grapefruit and orange blossom intermingle with mineral, chalk and quarry dust. The wine bubbles with electricity, tightly wound with a touch of width to the mid-palate, with incredible complexity, depth, and a persistent finish. Cracking Chablis!

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• 2008 Chanson Père & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Mid yellow the nose is open with a floral and citric lift yet also shows some evolution with a hint of bruised apple.
  The richly textured entry is open-knit with fine mineral-edged acid, chalk, and crushed rocks. Quite poised, it broadens out on the mid-palate with oatmeal and quince and then morphs to a more oily sensation on the back palate. Intriguing wine, the initial development doesn't detract from what is a poised wine and shows some tautness in the long finish.

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• 2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light lemon in colour with classic notes of Meyer lemon, mineral, chalk and oyster shell. A touch of oatmeal enhances the saline, crushed rocks, and more green apple notes - almost a bircher muesli.
  The palate has a firm fine acidity, poised with clear focus and a touch of richness in the mid palate. Complex and elegant with a wonderfully long finish, this smart wine exudes an energetic vibe.

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• 2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  A light lemon colour, the nose is floral and focused with lemon, curry dust and flint.
  A poised and delineated wine, there is an edgy, nervous acidity, steely backbone peppered in lemon peel, and a fine display of minerals underscored with an oatmeal richness. Lemon in its forms continues to the mid-palate with lemon verbena and lemon oil, and the finish is expressive and long.

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• 2006 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light to medium yellow.
  The nose is relatively intense with mineral, chalk, orange blossom and white flowers and shows a touch of development.
  Great concentration on the mid-palate with delicate oatmeal notes, rapier acidity and some mid-palate breadth and density. A wonderful mix of ripe lemon zest and orange that mingles with crushed stone, mineral and chalk. Modern, clean example with a grippy phenolic note to the back palate and a long followthrough.

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• 2006 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 84 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light to medium straw-yellow, the aromas are filled with wet chalk and aniseed. A little evolved on entry with a touch of bruised apple, hints of mineral, wet river stone and citrus. But the wine is looser-knit and seems a little out of sorts. Pity.

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• 2007 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light to medium straw colour.
  Subtle aromas of chalk, citrus, mineral and oatmeal.
  The wine is all about minerals, crushed rocks and incisive acidity with its rapier-like, steely backbone, tight wound frame and freshness. Excellent Chablis that is ultra-linear and super long but just a hint of cream under the hood as the wine opens. Secretive...

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• 2009 Faiveley Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light yellow in colour, the aromas are lifted with fine minerals, struck stone, flint and lemon-pepper seasoning (!). A tightly wrapped entry, the wine seems to take time to show itself. Plentiful brisk acidity balance with some deep, dense fruits and richness. As the wine opens there is more exuberance about the nose, more breadth to the mid-palate and quirkier flavours of pastrami, lime zest, lit (rather than struck) match and quarry dust. The finish is long and persistent. Smart wine!

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• 2010 Alain Geoffroy Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Light yellow, the nose is very youthful with noted fermentation esters.
  A tight entry with floral notes and citrus tang, the wine has plenty of fruit in the mid-palate balanced by brisk, saline acidity. A clear, pure wine, the acidity is mouth cleansing, but the wine seems one-dimensional with wave after wave of salted lemons, crushed rocks, lemon sherbet and lemon verbena - Assyrtiko from a cool climate! Hasn't the depth, although the wine is invigorating!

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• 2003 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Auslese 87 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Faintly floral aromas of mineral, candle wax, mint and chalk show some development. A lovely thread of fine acidity is joined by a tightness to give a frame. However, quite a bit of residual sugar seems to overwhelm the acidity, resulting in a short, rather sweet finish.

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• 2004 Château Calon-Ségur 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Served blind, the bouquet shows hung game, cedar-wood, warm gravel, baked earth and chocolate.
  The entry is pronounced cassis with lemon-infused acidity and a thick, textural mid-palate. With firm and grippy tannins, the wine has a bitter chocolate feel and is cold and clammy. Ripe fruits suggest a warm year and there is a sweetness to that fruit as it unfolds in the glass. It feels like some Merlot is in the blend, but it is Cab-led with all the cassis, possibly St Estephe. Lacks a bit of presence, especially in the depth and concentration of the wine but else-wise a nice example.

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