Small supper at Noizé

Noizé, London
Tasted Thursday, April 27, 2023 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 98 views

Introduction

We were brilliantly marshaled by Dave Dryoff who was visiting from the US and enjoyed a fabulous meal at Noizé where the team were as attentive as ever.

Flight 1 - Gougeres and Crispy Pork Belly (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Cured Bass, Asparagus Bavarois, Lychee Jelly, Fresh Peas (1 Note)

  • 2013 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Match stick and undiluted Rose's lime cordial on pouring, this is a fabulous wine. The smoky reduction takes some time to clear - half an hour in a decanter would have helped the process methinks! As one of my co diners correctly marks real glycerol character to the nose too. Palate has glorious structure, a very subtle pepperiness and a lime blossom (Linden/Tilleul) character. Lovely

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Flight 3 - Beef Ragout, Al Dente Spaghetti (2 Notes)

  • 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Rich nose with hints of aniseed and a little beefiness, just the faintest line of brett on pouring which is absolutely appropriate. There is little grapefruit juice lift here too and just a pipette drop or two of age-derived balsamic. Palate is rich warming and long, hints of leather and maybe a hint of cinnamon. Good acidity.

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  • 1993 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Small pour, kindly offered by the restaurant. Cooler fruited than the 1990, morer on the red fruits too, some cranberry tartness. There is some freshly sliced mushroom and later a hint of steeped cherries. Absolutely the purest and least animale Beaucastel I can ever recall drinking! Palate is round, subtly spicy and long. Really like this.

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Flight 4 - Roasted Duck Breast, Pearl Barley Ragout, Prune Purée (2 Notes)

  • 1982 Château Duhart-Milon

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Opened in place of a dull 1989 Leoville Barton. Due to slightly crossed wires this was essentially splash decanted and poured. Suspect this contributed to a younger feeling and less giving wine than previous bottles in the last year. It is still joyous. Dark fruited with cedar and pencil notes. Just a spot of star anise. Palate is rich and long, tannins fully resolved and this is so more-ish. Improves with every sip. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.

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  • 1992 Ravenswood Pickberry

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain

    Fascinating wine and great for this Brit to try a Cali Bordeaux blend with some serious bottle age. This is 65% Merlot, 30% Cab Sauvignon and 5% Cab Franc. Very youthful colour on pouring almost Zin like. Nose has a blueberry compote character there are hints of mahogany dresser and later a slice of coffee and walnut sponge cake. Palate is a little slow out of the blocks by comparison but when it gets going has real breadth. Some plum compliments the blue fruits and a little high quality grated chocolate. A treat, thanks, Dave

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Flight 5 - Ile Flottante (1 Note)

  • 1995 Alois Kracher TBA #7 Chardonnay Welschriesling Nouvelle Vague

    Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee

    Wow what a wine! Nose has tarte-tatin apple, caramel / toffee and pastry notes. There is a touch of marzipan too and later some passion fruit. Palate has both a searing acidity and a charming creme brûlée crust sweetness and slight char - absolutely perfectly balancing the sweetness and acidity. Texture is something else too mouth-coating. Amazing length too, I can taste this 60 seconds after swallowing.

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Closing

A lovely and varied selection of wines, and fabulous company with banter moving between where the best barbecued pork can be found to cycling to how not to build a wine cellar!

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