Smoked Beef at the Chans

With a lovely smoked wagyu beef-rib

• 2018 Domaine Anne Gros & Jean-Paul Tollot La 50/50 89 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Côtes de Brian

  A pleasant enough drink. Nothing spectacular, but quite enjoyable with a smoked beef short-rib. This had an attractive nose of black cherries and darker berries seasoned with cracked pepper, wild garrigue and a little savoury backdrop of meat and earth. The palate was a little step behind the nose I thought, a touch simpler and not as together, with sweet, ripe notes of blueberries and plums laced with more warm, peppery spice. There was a little spike of acid and a some fine tannins that kept it structured and balanced, but also added a little ungainliness in the way it came together, especially in the finish. Nothing really complex or compelling, but this was pleasant enough and quite food friendly.

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• 2005 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 890 'Selección Especial' 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Very, very good indeed, if still rather young. A little tight and American oak-dominated when first poured, it started opening up nicely with an hour or so in the decanter. The nose was a blast of Tempranillo’s cigarette smoke and sweet oak at first; but that quietened down with time and air, melding into a lovely melange with sweet red cherries, dried flowers and fragrant baking spices, all along with a little earthy touch that was just starting to peak out from amidst the sweeter tones. A really alluring nose. The palate was really bright and juicy, with super-fresh acidity and velvety tannins draped over a delicious core of dark cherries and plums. There was some earth and spice on the midpalate, some dried flowers and orange peel, and then a nice tail of chocolate with just a hint of smoky tobacco right at the end. Seamless and silky, with a lovely marriage of sweet and savoury flavours, this was a real delight to drink. It is just starting to creep into a delicious drinking window now, especially when paired with beef - but give it a bit more time: it should be absolutely lovely in 4-5 years.

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