Superb white Burgundies

Great line-up at Imperial Treasure Paragon that reminded me of the fact that whites more than reds.

• 1991 Peter Lauer Sekt Grande Réserve Brut Natur 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Wow clearly something that was from the 80s or early 90s but only one person managed to nail this as a non-champagne. Lovely patina that came with age, quite broad and oxidative in a Charles Heidsieck style. The only clue in hindsight that this wasn’t a champagne was the sweetness. Fantastic discovery. 11.5% alcohol.

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• 2006 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Stunning nose with lots of gravitas and expressive honey notes - either this was before his reductive phase or it had dissipated with age. Thought this had the density and weight of a grand cru but some said the finish tailed off which was true but slightly harsh. Loved the balance of this, incredibly complete for me.

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• 2006 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Another Ramonet white that didn’t live up to expectations, in line with my experience that the reds are more consistent than the whites. Rather strict and muted at first, wouldn’t have guessed this to be the same vintage as the PYCM. Agreed that there was a distracting almond note on the nose, palate had some greenness with a not-too-pleasant acid streak. Got better with air but closed back up again.

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• 2013 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Surprisingly similar to the Bouchard despite being from different villages and being almost a decade younger. Powerful with exotic, sappy fruit, but still with a mineral streak. Others liked it more than I did though, since I felt this was missing some depth. Also thought this was a little advanced for its age so might be a good idea to drink these up.

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• 2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Brought for a friend. Slow-oxed five hours before, since another friend who had this the previous week said this was oaky still. A white Burgundy from another era - full, round and rich with butterscotch notes. Too heavy for some but I thought this was imposing in a good way, but definitely will not win any prizes for being delicate. Bouchard whites rarely disappoint.

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• 2016 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  My contribution - did a double take when I saw the current market price for this. Stony white fruit, still tight and showing some stark acidity. Good, but a little reserved and thin on the fruit which I find common for 2016s which is the weakest white vintage for me in recent memory.

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• 2000 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Brought for a friend. Probably past peak with honeyed, sherry notes. Weighty, old-school style, still had some semblance of acidity but overall found this tough going.

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• 1996 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Corked.

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• 2020 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrées 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  So pale in colour that it was almost transparent. Similar to the PYCM, this had an expressive nose with exuberant citrus fruit. Palate was ripe but restrained at the same time with good acidity. Lacked depth but perhaps that will come with time.

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• 2007 Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  So quintessential that it was easy to identify, immediately guessed 2011 Carillon Referts. Restrained with such purity and transparency of fruit, the lemon and saline notes were in perfect harmony. Superb drive that I love in great white burgundies, in a very good spot now. One of my favourites on the night.

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• 1999 Domaine du Château de Chorey (Germain) Beaune 1er Cru Teurons 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Brought this as an extra, slow-oxed for five hours. Most guessed Chambolle because of the superb floral nose that had just the right amount of lift and VA. Palate had pretty, if a little rustic fruit. A 1999 at its peak now. My first time trying this maker and he definitely had the magic touch.

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• 2018 Domaine Michel Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  There was a generational change at this domaine which meant this was very different in style to the 2012 I had a month ago which was more traditional and rustic. Made in a modern style with a candied note, showed the heaviness of the warm vintage. Knew that this was a Vosne but wouldn’t have placed it correctly if blinded as it lacked finesse.

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