Grenache Night 2023

Four of us gathered over some fine French bistro-style cooking to catch up and muse on a grape which seems to have an almost infinite number of expressions out there.

• 2014 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc 92 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

  A really impressive bottle, fresh, balanced and exactly what I was looking for to kick off our Grenache tasting on a warm summer eve. Perfumed, citrus-laden nose with some floral elements and loads of petrol. Good energy, tension and balance with a refreshing mouthfeel. Stone fruit joins the citrus notes. Beautifully delineated, nearly 10 years on. Well done.

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• 2020 Paix Sur Terre Grenache Blanc Glenrose Vineyard 87 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles Adelaida District

  A bit of a headscratcher, frankly lacking typicity. The fruit notes seemed correct but for me the wine was marred by a leesy/yeasty note that distracted and made the wine come off as imbalanced.

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• 2012 Domaine Le Colombier Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras

  It makes little sense that this wine showed so well, punching so far above its weight many years beyond its supposed drinking window. Fresh, balanced and flat-out delicious, with sweet red and blue fruit, black olive and fennel in tasty harmony. I suppose the Syrah was more prominent than the Grenache. I would drink this every day if I had some.

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• 2010 Keplinger Basilisk 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  In 2016, I predicted this wine would have a longer life than did Mr. Galloni. Looks like I was wrong. Ripe and rich but what i remember as sweet red fruit and orange peel has given way to oak notes and heat on the finish. Not a bad wine, just much weaker than it once was, at least for this bottle.

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• 2017 Samsara Grenache Colson Canyon Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

  By far the lightest expression of Grenache we had at our tasting, and for me it didn't quite work. Notes of strawberry, apples and licorice, somewhat dilute, and faded on the finish. To be fair, some others liked this wine quite a lot.

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• 1994 Clos Erasmus Priorat 96 Points

  Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

  Another fabulous bottle of this, my best yet. Still combining freshness and power, with plenty of structure and impressive concentration. Loads of dark berries, some minerality and spice. No evident oak. This was served alongside a splendid 2013 Erasmus, and frankly it was very hard to distinguish between the two. No complaints here!

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• 2013 Clos Erasmus Priorat 96 Points

  Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

  Silky, rich and energetic, with the freshness I recall from the best bottles but which was lacking in the last one I tried. Herbal notes alongside the ripe fruit. Very good concentration. Seamless and irresistible. Wears its alcohol level well (16.5%, contrary to the label, which says 15%).

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• 2012 Herman Story Grenache On The Road 90 Points

  USA, California

  An uber-powerful, concentrated and jammy version of Grenache, not my thing, especially at the end of a multi-bottle tasting, but clearly a quality bottle made with intent. The fruit notes were more black than red or blue, with some menthol and slate. I could not have called the grape had this been served blind.

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• 2010 Alban Vineyards Pandora 92 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley

  Dense and rich, with ripe dark fruit and an array of spice notes. Somehow managed to come off as balanced despite the turbo-charged concentration. Shows no signs of tiring.

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I am not sure we achieved anything close to a consensus on the best or most typical versions of Grenache out there. Rather, we were happy to revel in the grape's diversity while happily visiting with each other. That said, there is no doubt that the two bottles of Erasmus stood head and shoulders above the rest. Almost made me wish I had added in a L'Ermita to up the level of competition, but we had plenty of wine as it was, so I'll take the win, as they say!