2017 Brunellos and other Italian wines

Tasted Saturday, March 25, 2023 by WindFlyer with 48 views

Flight 1 - i bianchi (2 Notes)

  • 2020 La Mesma Gavi Tre Rose 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Gavi

    …not sure whether this is the same Gavi "yellow label" also produced by La Mesma with different labelling or an altogether different wine…

    100% Cortese made by three sisters surnamed Rosina – the three roses! – and without wood contact or ageing.

    it is pale yellow in the glass with light body. the nose is pleasantly fruity with aromas of fresh melon and apricot and citric whiffs. in mouth it is light-bodied, fresh and juicy yet dry. slightly fruity medium finish. easily enjoyable by itself and for drinking young!

    12.5% AbV

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  • 2020 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Terlano Riserva Vorberg 91 Points

    Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

    straw yellow with a greenish tint and somewhat viscous in the glass. the nose initially is of melon and flinty notes, but with time in glass and as it warms, it grows richer with notes of white stonefruit, apple, pineapples and more than a passing whiff of white flowers. in the mouth it has an agreeable silky texture with notable acidity and is dry. while initially reticent, it opens nicely in the glass with a mineral vein runs thru the flavours, giving them a lovely quasi-saline twist. very long finish with a hint of spice.

    there is quite a bit complexity and structure here, so i'd expect this to drink for quite some time. it also seems like a very lovely food wine with good upside potential.

    13.5% AbV; whole cluster pressing and vinified and aged in wood (likely neutral) with full malolactic.

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Flight 2 - il Barolo (1 Note)

  • 2018 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    very elegant young Barolo!

    slightly pale ruby-garnet in the glass with medium body. a bouquet of red roses greets the nose… and is then joined by black cherries and whiffs of cedar and dry rock. surprisingly open in the mouth at this stage; the cherry and pomegranate notes flow gently thru the palate with some spicy tones, and anchored by very polished tannins. the finish is long with a delightful procession of sweet and bitter notes and not a hint of its 14.5% alcohol level.

    this seems like a Barolo one doesn't need to wait a decade to enjoy with a good decanting, and still it should go long (not exactly an eternity as others do). there is quite a bit of substance here and beautiful balance too. i came back to this at the end of the tasting… and my initial assessment was confirmed.

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Flight 3 - gli Brunelli (3 Notes)

  • 2017 Baricci Brunello di Montalcino

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    double decanted for tasting…

    attractive garnet colour in the glass with appreciable body. below the whiffs of alcohol, the nose is dominated by sour cherries with notes of fig, dried eucalyptus, and earthiness. in the mouth it is full and dense but still extremely tight and with a strong tannic backbone that grudgingly gives up its grip here and there. and when it does, the ripe cherry with bitter and sometimes fresh accents hint at what this wine may become. moderately long in the finish with noticeable heat from the 15% AbV.

    i suspect this will likely need a handful of years for the tannins to resolve and better integrate with the dense fruit core. at this moment, i can't get a good read on it to assign a rating… a lot of elements there show a good deal of promise.

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  • 2017 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    dark garnet and with good body in the glass. the nose is generous with black cherries, whiffs of plums, spice and savoury herbs. its fullness in the mouth is leavened by a remarkable freshness that makes some bright cherry and raspberry notes shine thru. it's a bit austere in the middle as the tannins take hold, but comes alive again toward a finish that is very long and goes from spicy to herbal to fruity with a saline edge.

    drinkable now with good aeration, and likely to improve with a bit more age. wears its 14% AbV rather well.

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  • 2017 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    medium garnet in the glass and appreciable body. noticeable spice notes open the nose of plums and cherries with whiffs of lavender. quite open in the mouth, the ripe fruit flavours of cherry, blood orange and raspberry flow with an agreeable tartness and are supported by rather soft tannins. notes of licorice, star anise, wet rock provide accents and lead into a long finish that is slightly marred by some heat (14.5% AbV).

    there is good concentration and balance that makes this enjoyable now and likely to go for a good handful of years.

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